TOOLS:
We have built small tool boxes, based on a plan we obtained from the Buckeye Trail (Ohio) work crews. In this box we place a screw-top plastic jar of paint, a rag, a marine scraper and the brush. Some people like this, others don't. We simply present it as an idea. Let us know if you have other great solutions.

the box:	The box is built of 1/4 inch plywood, although the suggestion has been made that sheet aluminum would be lighter. The joints are sealed with silicone sealer so paint can not drip out the cracks. Some people have asked for a box with a shoulder strap instead of the dowel handle. Download a pdf of the plan. See other people's preferences
the scraper:	We very much like this three-sided marine scraper. It stays sharp a long time, and is tough enough for very rough bark. You may want to keep a small wrench handy because the nut on the end will occasionally work loose. See other people's preferences
the brush:	Some people say to use a 1" wide brush because it will spread much wider. Some people prefer to use a 2" brush that has the bristles cut off to about 3/4 to 1 inch in length. This gives a stiff, controllable set of bristles. We all agree on storing it without cleaning either in foil, plastic wrap, freezer, etc (see Help section for more info). An old can will give you a storage place to keep the brush upright. See other people's preferences
the paint:	A quart paint can or a large screw-top jar, such as a peanut butter jar, works well. At any rate, don't try to carry a heavy gallon through the woods! See other people's preferences
the size:	A blaze in the correct size, 2" x 6", painted on the end of the box can help you judge the size of the blazes you paint. Another helpful mental gauge is to remember that it's about the size of a dollar bill. See other people's preferences

TECHNIQUES:
OK, so you are standing in the woods, on the trail, with your handy painting kit, wearing your old clothes, but are you ready to be a true blazer? Come along on a Spirit of the Woods blazing training seminar, just to be sure. The oil-base paint is messy and since we (at least those among us who are vertically challenged) are working over our heads most of the time, those old clothes are a good idea. I know you want to get into the paint right now, see a blaze appear, so we'll skip the scraping for a practice run...

Not too much paint on the brush... don't want it to drip. How about a practice blaze or two on some scraps of wood? No matter which length or width of brush you prefer, here's a good technique. Start with the corner of the brush at a lower corner of where you want the blaze to be. Take a stroke upward defining an edge (right-handers, this is probably the left edge, vice-versa for you southpaws-- but there's no one correct place to begin.) Then start at what will be the top corner of that same edge and come down. Get more paint if need be, then define the other edge. Sharpen up the corners and fill in all the cracks.

That was fun! Let's try it on a real tree. But here we must do all that fussy prep work. If the tree has rough bark, get right to it, and scrape away the outer layers to make a smooth surface. Use that scraper, or a hatchet, and put some muscle into it. Don't be afraid to take away the woody layers. You do want to avoid breaking the tender inner bark. If you break this layer, the sap will begin to run through the painted blaze and make oozy marks or drips. The paint will probably seal the wound enough to prevent damage to the tree, but try not to nick this layer. On trees that are already smooth, you still need some preparation. There is sure to be dust, a crumbly layer, lichen or other debris which should be smoothed away. Sometimes a wire brush is good for this, sometimes even that is too rough. Be gentle with young trees.

With a little practice, you'll be making nice square corners easily. Remember 2" x 6" is the goal. You might carry a template, or just remember that this is only a little smaller than a dollar bill. You probably have a template in your pocket!

Now how far apart are they supposed to be? Remember that it is sight lines that count, not distance. Read various philosophies in the "Help" section of this website. However you do it, choose your next blaze location. Make sure it is clearly visible from the one you just painted, but reasonably far away so that multiple blazes will not be showing at the same time. You may need to trim some brush or weeds. Get that scraper out again, and start over!
The picture at the right illustrates a well-marked left turn. From the vantage point on the trail where the picture was taken it's impossible to tell that the trail is turning. But there's a clear left turn marker, top blaze offset in the direction of the turn. If you look deep on the left you will see a single blaze. And if you were really walking this trail you would indeed find an abrupt left turn just before that single blaze, and that single blaze is the assurance marker which shows you that your turn is correct. And from that point you would be able to see the next single blaze ahead of you along the trail.