GRAND MARAIS - WHITEFISH BAY, MI

Alger, Luce and Chippewa Counties, MI

82.1 mi total 67.6 certified 2.9 connecting 75.4 marked 6.7 bare

The trail continues eastward, mostly along the Lake Superior shore with occasional trips inland, for nearly another 30 miles. The beach scenery is nice, though not as spectacular as in Pictured Rocks, and receives far less use than the National Park. Lake Superior State Forest allowed the trail to fall into disrepair in the early 90s; during 1996, the DNR marked off-road routes east of Grand Marais and west of Tahquamenon Falls SP, and Americorps volunteers cleared and marked these segments. Expect to lose the trail where the trail has eroded out along Lake Superior, and it becomes necessary to walk the beach to the next marked segment.

CAMPING: Camping is permitted anywhere in the state forest, but must be at least 200 feet off the trail. There are several state forest camp grounds (SFCG), and a developed campsite at Muskallonge Lake State Park. INFORMATION: The best bet is to contact NCTA Upper Peninsula Coordinator Gene Elzinga, 12 Middle Island, Marquette MI 49855 (906) 225-1704. MAPS: A combination of the maps given here, which are a little vague for a primary map in this area, given spotty blazing _ and good county and/or topo maps is about the best that can be expected. FOR MORE INFORMATION on Luce County, which is where most of this segment is, contact Newberry Area Tourist Association, PO Box 308, Newberry MI 49868 (800) 831-7292.

0.0 [0.0] NORTH M-77 & CR H-58 INTERSECTION

The two highways share the street southbound, along with the trail.

GRAND MARAIS, MI 49839 (Pop. 498). One of Michigan's most isolated harbor communities, over 25 miles in any direction from any other village, nestled in trees overlooking Lake Superior. Limited services available, but it's a long way east on the NCT before hitting the next store. LODGING: ArborGate Inn (906) 494-2681; Dunes Motel, (906) 494-2324; Hilltop Motel & Cabins (906) 494-2331; North Shore Lodge, (906) 494-2361; Voyaguers Motel (906) 494-2389 and Woodland Park Campground (906) 494-2613. OTHER SERVICES: Restaurants, a Microbrewery, small grocery, gas station/convenience store, bank with ATM, and hardware with sporting goods. (this information updated 12/06)

0.2 [0.2] TURN EAST AT SOUTH M77 & CR H58 INTERSECTION

The North Country Trail turns east for a roadwalk along CR H58 to get out of town, which doesn't take long. About 2.5 miles out, start watching for a trailhead leading to the south.

2.5 [2.3] TURN SOUTHEAST ON MARKED TRAIL

The newly-developed trail in this area starts out to the southeast, then turns to the east to parallel CR H58. After 1.5 miles, it turns back to the northeast, and rejoins CR H58 to cross Grand Marais Creek.

4.2 [1.7] CROSS CR H58

The trail turns away from the road, and heads north on a ski trail. The turn has a small "Grand Marais Ski Trail" sign and a "North Country Pathway" sign.

6.0 [2.3] REACH LAKE SUPERIOR SHORELINE

For about the next 35 miles, the trail mostly follows along the Lake Superior shoreline, sometimes quite close to the shore, sometimes cutting inland to avoid private property. "The next 30 miles were incredible," Ed Talone wrote of this section on his 1994 end to end hike. "I enjoyed the pounding surf, and the distant views wherever I looked." Close to the shoreline, there are places where the trail is blocked by downfall, or where wave action from the lake has washed part of the trail into the lake. There are places where the blazes are thin, and there may be bushwhacking - but mostly the trail stays in a narrow corridor between CR H58 and the shore. Shortly after reaching the shoreline, the trail enters Luce County.

10.5 [4.5] CROSS CR H58

About a mile into Luce County, the trail turns inland and crosses H58 to skirt south of private property. The trail recrosses H58 to the north just east of Randolph Lake and goes through open woods, and parallels the Lake Superior Shoreline. until reaching a loop ski trail out of Blind Sucker River SFCG. The ski trail and the NCNST continue on the lakeward side of CR H58. The loop trail branches off to the south shortly afterward. The trail continues down the lakeshore, sometimes behind a row of heavy trees. After a distance, a two-rut trail to Blind Sucker River SFCG is reached.

14.0 [3.5] SPUR TRAIL TO BLIND SUCKER RIVER SFCG

Blind Sucker River SFCG is a fee campground, with 13 developed sites and pit toilets. The NCT continues on along the lakeshore.

14.7 [0.7] LAKE SUPERIOR SFCG

Lake Superior SFCG is another fee campground, with 36 developed sites and flush toilets. The trail continues to the east,squeezed between the Blind Sucker River and the lakeshore.

18.4 [3.7] CROSS BLIND SUCKER RIVER

The Blind Sucker River is crossed on a log jam, and continues along the lakeshore. The trail briefly joins CR H58, and follows along it until turning north into Muskallonge Lake SP.

20.1 [1.7] REACH MUSKALLONGE LAKE SP

Muskallonge Lake State Park is under Michigan DNR Parks Division, where the priority for trails is higher. As a result, the trail here is in good shape. The campground is a fully-developed fee state campground, with 179 modern camping sites, flush toilets, a picnic area, beach house, boat launch and playground. For more information, contact the park at (906) 658-3338. The trail continues out the park on the access road.

27.1 [7.0] PASS REED AND GREEN BRIDGE SFCG

Shortly after leaving the park, CR H58 turns to the south. The trail continues eastward, sometimes along the lakeshore, but dipping inland to avoid private land holdings, until reaching a side trail to Reed and Green Bridge SFCG. This is another fee state forest campground, with moderate development, and pit toilets. The trail continues eastward mostly along the lakeshore, or slightly behind it, with little vertical travel; the Big Two-Hearted River lies to the south, almost parallel to the trail.

34.6 [7.5] PASS TWO-HEARTED RIVER SFCG

Two-Hearted River SFCG is another fee state forest campground with 45 sites, pit toilets and limited development. The trail crosses over the Big Two-Hearted river on a suspension bridge near the campground. The Big Two-Hearted River is famous for being the subject of one of Ernest Hemingway's early stories, but it's flying false colors; Hemingway lied to cover up good trout fishing in the Fox River, 40 miles to the south. It's still a pretty good trout stream, though. The trail continues on eastward, still on the shoreline or close to it.

37.9 [3.3] LITTLE LAKE SFCG

Little Lake SFCG is another fee state forest campground with pit toilets and limited development. The Edmund Fitzgerald, the largest ore carrier on the lakes at the time and the most recent large "iron boat" to sink on the great lakes, sank in a furious "Witch of November" storm about 30 miles northeast of here in 1978; it was later the subject of a famous Gordon Lightfoot song. Here, the trail finally leaves Lake Superior, and follows around the west and the south shore of the lake, then heads inland to the Culhane Lake SFCG.

39.7 [1.8] CULHANE LAKE SFCG

Culhane Lake SFCG is another fee state forest campground, with 22 sites, pit toilets and limited development, and is the last of these that are located along this stretch. The trail circles around the west side of the lake, and continues in a southerly direction, passes through a marshy area, then angles southwest to CR 500 (Northwestern Rd.). The trail south from Culhane Lake to inside the Tahquamenon Falls boundary has been the subject of recent work, but trail maintenance has often been thin in this area.

44.3 [4.6] CROSS CR 500

The trail crosses CR 500 in a southwesterly direction, joins a southbound forest road for an uncertified mile and a half, leaves the road, for a ways, then rejoins it for another uncertified mile or so, before angling back to the southeast and again reaching CR500. There are serveral large open sandy plains, and several clearcuts.

50.5 [5.9] CROSS CR 500 AGAIN

The trail angles to the east through rolling forest, finally entering Tahquamenon Falls SP.

54.6 [4.1] ENTER TAHQUAMENON FALLS SP

TAHQUAMENON FALLS STATE PARK: is the second largest state park in Michigan and contains over 36,000 acres. There are three developed areas in the park, at the upper falls, lower falls, and at the river mouth. The upper falls has a drop of nearly 50 feet and is over 200 feet across. Four miles downstream is the lower falls. The lower falls are not as large as the upper falls but are equally as beautiful. CAMPING: Four fee campgrounds: two modern at the lower falls, and a modern and a rustic at the river mouth. The modern campgrounds have about 90 sites each and have water, ground fire rings, tables, flush toilets, showers and electricity. Backpack camping areas are available on request. INFORMATION: Manager, Tahquamenon Falls State Park, Box 225, Paradise MI 49768 (906) 492-3415. The Hutchins Guidealso has an description of the trail in the park. MAPS: Trails in the park are well marked and maintained, and the park brochure is probably adequate to get the hiker through the park.

This is the only part of the trail in the park where maintenance may be a little on the thin side. The trail continues east, well marked until reaching a park ski trail. The trail joins the ski trail, taking the south fork over well-cleared, easy countryside until reaching M-123, where the ski trail takes off on its own.

56.5 [1.9] CROSS M123

The trail continues, now mostly south, toward the roar of the Upper Tahquamenon Falls.

57.0 [0.5] REACH TAHQUAMENON UPPER FALLS

The trail reaches the stairway to the Upper Tahquamenon Falls, which are to the south. To the north, up a paved tourist trail, lies the visitor center and and parking lot for the upper falls. This is the largest waterfall, in terms of volume, that the NCT thru-hiker will see. The NCT goes southeast from the top of the steps along the north side of the river. Foot traffic is heavy in this area, but it soon thins out. This is a well-beaten path, one of the most heavily-used segments of the NCNST, almost certainly the most heavily used segment in a wild setting. Until recently, it was not an easy path; with many tree roots to trip over as a result of the use, plus wet areas and log bridges to cross. However, major work in 1994 through 1996 improved the pathway immensely with substantial bridges and boardwalks. Partway through the trip, the trail ascends in a steep climb to the top of the bluff, where there's a bench to rest on, then, after a short distance, descends steeply to the river again. Approaching the lower falls, the trail tends to fan out into many treadways, but the main trail stays close to the river on boardwalks, especially where the lower falls splits around an island; there are great views in this area. Rather than being a single waterfall, the river descends in several steps; on the other side of the island, the descent is more concentrated, and to some, more spectacular. There is a stand around the river bend, where boats can be rented for the short row over to the island for a more intimate view of the falls.

60.7 [3.7] LOWER TAHQUAMENON FALLS

From the boat launch a boardwalk trail goes to the lower falls parking lot, where there is a concession stand. The trail goes through the parking lot, and follows the outer (northern) loop road throught the campground.

NOTE: Possible Maildrop: Potential maildrops are few and far between in the section between Grand Marais and St. Ignace. At least one long-distance hiker has arranged to use the Park Headquarters, about a mile up the lower falls access road then west on M123, for a maildrop. This should not be used without prior arrangement. The concession stand at the lower falls only stocks snack-type items.

61.3 [0.6] LOWER FALLS CG

The trail heads east from the campground, crosses a creek on logs, and joins with the old trail route, which heads southeasterly away from the crowds. After about a mile, some small lakes, part of the Water Tank Lakes complex, is passed. The trail curves around a little, with small climbs and descents, until reaching an old railroad grade, which it follows for a short distance, crossing an old woods road.

63.7 [2.4] LEAVE OLD RAILROAD GRADE

The trail bends to the south, then the southwest through a jack-pine forest, makes a steep descent to cross a small creek near the river, then joins an old two-rut road leading southeast, then east to a crossing with another two-rut, Old Stove Road.

67.0 [3.3] OLD STOVE ROAD

The trail continues in a southeast direction across an open area, then follows a ridge, crosses a valley to another ridge, and emerges at the Camp 10 Lakes, which are occasionally used by backpackers as a camping area; permits should be arranged at the park office before camping. From the Camp 10 Lakes, the trail has undergone another relo not always shown on literature; where it once went northeast, then joined an old woods road, it now turns southeast on a direct route to the Tahqua trailhead. The trail now follows the ridge to the southeast with a tremendous view, then descends to a valley, and continues on through a low area with plankways before rising and coming to an old woods road, which it follows out to the Tahqua Trail.

69.8 [2.8] TAHQUA TRAIL TRAILHEAD

The trail follows on or near a dusty, sandy two-lane road on out to M123. Recent work has moved much of what was once a tedious roadwalk off-road. This road is marked as the Tahqua Trail, and ends at M123. The trail turns to the south along M123; 4.5 miles to the north lies Paradise, MI, the other possibility for a maildrop for the long distance hiker in this area, and the only real possibility for resupply.

PARADISE, MI 49768, lies on the shores of Lake Superior's Whitefish Bay, which the Edmund Fitzgerald would have made "If she'd put fifteen more miles behind her," the Gordon Lightfoot song says. . LODGING: Many small motels. Cedar Lodge, (906) 492-3310; Curley's Motel, (906) 492-3445; Others in area. OTHER: Several small restaurants in area. Small grocery, good for short-term resupply. Hardware, sporting goods. POINTS OF INTEREST: Much related to the Fitzgerald and other shipwrecks can be seen at the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum, ten miles to the north, at an old Coast Guard station that overlooks the site of the Fitzgerald's sinking.

75.4 [5.6] RIVERMOUTH CG

Rivermouth Campground is south across the Tahquamenon River from the corner of Tahqua Trail and M123. This section is entirely a roadwalk along M123, and due for replacement by the North Country Trail Hikers of Marquette in 1998. The new route, as yet not finalized, will probably have it's first half to the west of M123, and the second half east of the highway. About half a mile away from the rivermouth is a rest stop with picnic tables, toilets, and water. The old logging road leading to the trail is about three miles farther on, and is not well marked. If it's missed, the hiker can continue on south on M123 another three miles, then east on FH42 about three miles to the formal trailhead.

78.9 [3.5] OLD LOGGING ROAD

The old logging road runs to the southeast, crossing over Silver Creek bridge and continuing.

80.1 [1.2] CROSS SILVER CREEK

Past the bridge, the trail bends slightly to the south, continues straight for a ways, then bends slightly to the south again. A mile or so past the bridge, a marked route, used as a snowmobile trail, heads off to the east, turns south, and joins another old woods road that comes out at the formal trailhead parking lot on the south side of FH42.

82.1 [2.0] HIAWATHA NF TRAILHEAD

Description of this segment ends at this point.

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