Ontonagon, Houghton and Baraga Counties, MI
89.0 mi total 87.6 certified 0.0 connecting 89.0 marked 0.0 bare
The trail in the Ottawa National Forest is marked with blue diamonds. CAMPING is permitted anywhere on Ottawa National Forest lands, unless otherwise prohibited. Bear are not uncommon anywhere in the forest, and bear precautions should be taken. INFORMATION: Forest Supervisor, Ottawa National Forest, 2100 E. Cloverland Drive, Ironwood MI 49938. (906) 932-1330. Other information sources: Hutchins Guide, available from NCTA Trail Store. MAPS: The Forest brochures on the NCNST may be adequate to get through this section, as are sketch maps here, in the Michigan Mapset and the Hutchins Guide; however, in view of the history of sporadic trail maintenance and marking, and the ruggedness of the terrain, topos of the area are highly recommended. Be careful with local maps; Forest Service road numbers are not the same on all maps. The numbers used here are the ones on the most recent available forest information.
Several people have remarked on the ruggedness and difficulty of the western part of this section. "The topography of the Trap Hills stretch is the most rugged I encountered on this hike," Chet Fromm wrote of his 1991-95 section hike though this area. "This may be the most difficult section of the trail in upper Michigan," Byron Hutchins agrees. In addition, trail maintenance has been sporadic due to Forest Service funding problems, though there have been recent efforts to do a better job. But, those who are willing to dare the difficulties and accept the challenges will be rewarded with many overlooks with outstanding views.
0.0 [0.0] LILY POND TRAILHEAD
This section is a roadwalk south for 0.7 mile along Summit Peak Road.
0.7 [0.7] CROSS SOUTH BOUNDARY RD.
NOTE: Due to the 1997 collapse of the Big Iron River West Branch bridge, 7.5 miles ahead, in times of high water long-distance hikers will have to avoid this section by hiking South Boundary Road 10 miles northeast to M107, then east 2.2 miles to M64, then south about 10 miles to the next NCNST trailhead.
About .2 mi past South Boundary Road, the trail leaves Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, and enters Ottawa National Forest. A tiny stream across the trail is the first opportunity for camping outside the park. After about1.5 miles, the trail generally parallels the West Branch of the Big Iron River. For about the next 3.0 miles, it is cut trail, and has some ups and downs. Care should be taken to not lose them, especially at cross trails; this is the area where Fromm lost the trail repeatedly, but trail maintenance has been done since then. Snowmobile and ATV trails in the area can cause confusion. About four miles into the section, the trail runs on a bluff overlooking the river, and several difficult ravines are crossed. Farther on, it follows an old logging road along the bluff before descending to the river and the former bridge site. The bridge collapsed under snow loads in early 1997, and is not planned to be rebuilt soon. The only alternative is to ford the river, reportedly no deeper than about 1-2 feet deep under normal conditions. Exercise caution, use fording poles, and keep waist belts unfastened.
8.2 [7.5] CROSS WEST BRANCH, BIG IRON RIVER
The trail climbs sharply from the river, and follows the south bluff of the river before turning east on an old logging road, then descends to the Big Iron River, which is crossed on a large suspension bridge similar to the one to the west that collapsed.
9.8 [1.6] BIG IRON RIVER BRIDGE
The trail ascends from the river, turns to the south, and parallels another abandoned logging road out to M-64, where there's a parking area.
WHITE PINE, MI 49971, 5 miles north of trail. Site of the last active upper peninsula copper mine, White Pine Mine has been the focus of controversy in recent years over an attempt to reopen it. Restaurant, convenience store, small grocery store.
13.3 [3.5] CROSS M64
The trail starts out level, but soon ascends sharply. About halfway through the section, the trail reaches the top of Bergland Hill, with a great view. There have been discussions about turning the hill into a downhill ski area. The trail then goes down the other side, up and down but mostly down, until reaching the gravel Old M64.
15.4 [2.1] CROSS OLD M64
The trail again starts out level, but past an old logging road ascends sharply to the top of a ridge, and descends to Forest Road 326, where there's a parking area.
16.4 [1.0] CROSS FR326
The trail jogs northeast for a short distance on the forest road, then begins a sharp ascent on a series of switchbacks. At the top of the climb is an overlook with a great view. The trail turns east and descends down more switchbacks, crosses abandoned FR326B, climbs to the top of a bluff, then descends to meet the junction with the white-blazed Gogebic Ridge Trail.
17.7 [1.3] GOGEBIC TRAIL JUNCTION
The 8-mile Gogebic Ridge Trail heads southwest, giving great views of Lake Gogebic, the largest lake in the UP. The NCNST heads south for a ways, then turns northeast to penetrate the Trap Hills. This rugged terrain, with 300' sheer cliffs, provides great views of the surrounding hills and the Cascade Creek Valley. The trail climbs in a long ascent to the top of one of those bluffs, then follows along it in a jumble of climbs and descents. The trail eventually crosses a small valley, ascends and circles around a bluff, then descends to a wet area on a northeasterly heading before reaching the Soo Line Railroad grade.
21.0 [3.3] CROSS SOO LINE RR GRADE
The trail continues on a more gradual descent, crosses Bush Creek, then gradually ascends, partly on an old logging railroad grade, to the top of the bluff, where it's again an up and down affair. Farther on, the trail again dips across a valley, and continues along the bluff, now heading north. The trail descends, loops to the east, then the south, crossing first an old logging road, then a one-lane road before reaching FR400, where there's a parking area.
24.3 [3.3] CROSS FR400
The trail leaves FR400 in a southerly direction, jogs southeast, then continues south in a series of gradual ups and downs, then climbs to the top of a bluff for a short distance, before dipping through a steep-sided valley, then climbing to a good view spot. The trail descends easterly, crosses a stream, and climbs again to the top of a bluff, then descends to FR630.
27.2 [2.9] CROSS FR630
The trail now levels out and begins a gradual turn to the east. After a little more than a mile, it crosses a wet area filled with beaver dams and small creeks; some of the stream crossings are rather primitive. The turn continues, until by the end of the section the trail is northbound again. A sharp turn to the east signals that Norwich Rd. is nearby, where there is a parking area near the trailhead.
30.5 [3.3] CROSS NORWICH RD.
Past Norwich Road, the trail ascends a bluff, where there are several overlooks. It then descends into a valley with a wet area, climbs the bluff again, then descends to an old road which heads south in a steep descent to the old mining community of Norwich. Remains of the mine, including old mine shafts, are visible along the NCT in this area, but no buildings are left. Archeological activity has been taking place at Norwich, and may be in progress.
32.3 [1.8] NORWICH SPUR TRAIL JUNCTION
The trail follows the old road for a short distance, then turns east again, continuing along the bluff past an overlook, dips through a small valley, then reaches another overlook of the West Branch of the Ontonagon River. Leaving the overlook, the trail dips through a small valley, climbs past a couple more overlook, then descents to a segment constructed in 1997. An access trail to Victoria Road continues to the north
34.1 [1.8] PASS ACCESS TRAIL TO VICTORIA RD.
New trail descends gradually to cross Whiskey Hollow Creek on stepping stones. The trail crosses private land for the next 3.5 miles; no camping or fires in this section. Continuing east, the trail climbs a rock ridge with great views, then eventually descends to cross Gleason Creek. The trail ascends to the top of a bluff, which it follows near the edge, past a great overlook. The trail continues northeast, and eventually reaches an old logging road.
38.6 [4.5] CROSS OLD LOGGING ROAD
The older trail route is rejoined. The trail continues east across a flat area, ascends to an excellent viewpoint, descends through a muddy area, climbs over a ridge, descends to an overlook of Victoria Dam and Reservoir, and continues to descend to Victoria Dam Road.
42.2 [3.6] CROSS VICTORIA DAM RD.
The trail crosses the road, angles uphill, then turns west and crosses the road again and joins the old Victoria Mine tram road, once used to move rock from the mine downhill to a crusher along the river. Uphill, the NCNST joins a loop trail, with interpretive signs, and reaches Victoria Road. The route jogs east a short distance on the road, then turns north through an area of old historic structures -- and passes through one roofless one. The NCNST leaves the interpretive trail past the historic area, and continues northeast to Old Victoria Restoration site.
43.3 [1.1] OLD VICTORIA
In 1849, prospectors came to the Victoria Hills seeking copper and silver. Mining camps sprang up overnight, then vanished as quickly. Several buildings in this historic village have been restored. Free tours are available daily from Memorial Day through fall color season. Victoria Dam, the highest hydroelectric dam in the midwest, is about a mile to the south. The caretaker at the restoration site can help with finding water and a free place to camp.
The trail passes behind the old restored miner's cabins, then turns east, paralleling Victoria Road for a mile, then crosses it at the intersection of a gravel road. Because of problems crossing the Ontanagon River (see below), or to get supplies, long distance hikers may wish to roadwalk northeast to Rockland, then turn back south on US45 for about six miles to rejoin the trail. The Rockland-Ontonagon-Mass City area is probably the best place for long-distance hikers to resupply between Ironwood and Marquette.
ROCKLAND, MI 49960, 4 miles north of trail on Victoria Road. Limited supplies.
ONTONAGON, MI 49953, (Pop. 2000) 14 miles northwest of Rockland, is the county seat. Several motels, especially to the west of town; restaurants, supermarket, laundromat, sporting goods, hardware bank, pharmacy, doctor, dentist, hospital.
MASS CITY, MI 49948 (6 mi east of Rockland on US45 and M26), though not a great resupply point, is a special place on the NCNST, for this was the final home of Peter Wolfe, the first person to start an end-to-end hike on the trail. Wolfe, a former alcoholic street person, decided to take a long walk, when, in his words, "God turned off the alcohol faucet." His hike lasted from 1973 through 1979. Of all the places he went on the trail, he liked the people around Mass City the best, and there he settled, buying the first home he ever owned - not much more than a shack, where he lived until his death in 1990. Pause on the trail near here and remember one of the NCT's most memorable characters. Motel, restaurant, small grocery.
44.3 [1.0] CROSS VICTORIA DAM RD.
The trail angles southeast, then follows a powerline southwest back across the gravel road, then follows an old closed road south across the power plant flume, behind the powerhouse, then turns east and descends to the West Branch of the OntOnagon River.
45.8 [2.0] CROSS WEST BRANCH ONTONAGON RIVER
Victoria Dam operates on demand. Until a bridge for the trail is built, the trail route, about 1.5 miles below the dam, is a rockhop when the dam is not releasing water into the Ontonagon River. However, WHEN THE DAM IS RELEASING, THE RIVER IS DANGEROUSLY IMPASSABLE. A whistle on the powerhouse sounds as a warning when water is to be released, but release times are irregular. During release times, hikers have little choice but to wait it out - which may be weeks during high water - or roadwalk through Rockland, as described above. Once past the crossing, the trail climbs up out of the river valley and heads south through the forest for 3.1 miles until crossing FR733.
48.9 [3.1] CROSS FR733
The trail gradually swings to the east in a gentle descent, crosses a couple of old woods road, and crosses two ravines, then descends more sharply to a creek with a plank bridge, then rises, crosses a boardwalk, and reaches US 45, where there is a parking area to the south.
51.1 [2.2] CROSS US45
A separate path leads back to the trail from the US45 parking area. The trail turns east; after reaching the Baltimore River, the trail follows it downstream to the northeast past the old trail ford across the river and O Kun De Kun Falls, then reaches the bridge.
52.3 [1.2] BALTIMORE RIVER BRIDGE
The Baltimore River bridge is a 100-foot suspension bridge that replaces the old ford below the falls. New trail veers southeast, passes the junction with the old trail, then continues southwestward, then veers to the east, then ascends to a plateau, and continues east, mostly on the level, decends to a lower plateau, then to the Ontonagon River Middle Branch. The trail heads upstream to the bridge. There are campsites at either end of the bridge.
55.0 [2.7] ONTONAGON MIDDLE BRANCH BRIDGE
The river is crossed on a 130-foot suspension footbridge. The trail switchbacks to the southeast, then turns east, and climbs to FR866, where there are no parking facilities.
55.6 [0.6] CROSS FR866
The trail crosses through a couple of ravines, levels out for a ways, crosses three more ravines, then makes a gradual climb. It dips through a marshy valley, turns to the northeast, then climbs and turns east to the road, where there is parking to the south.
58.0 [2.4] CROSS GARDNER ROAD
If water levels are high, hikers may wish to bypass the upcoming ford of the East Branch of the Ontonagon River, and follow Gardiner Road to the north about a mile, turn east on Mud Creek Road (FR209) for about 3/4 mi, then southeast on the now-closed FR884 to pick the trail up again. From Gardner Road, the trail crosses an old woods road and passes through an old pine plantation, passes a powerline clearing and descends to an old railroad grade, and follows the grade to the crossing.
58.6 [0.6] CROSS ONTONAGON RIVER EAST BRANCH
In spring, this stream, about 25 feet wide, is probably unfordable, but in summer, it is only about 1 1/2 feet deep. The trail makes a steep, but short climb up the east bank, then heads east, southeast, then east again, crosses a marshy area and emerges on the closed FR884.
60.1 [1.5] CROSS FR884
The trail continues east, sometimes not well-defined, and it's necessary to keep eyes open for trail markers. Shortly after leaving the road, the trail crosses a beaver dam, climbs somewhat and meanders to the northeast, descendsto a wet area, crossed on a plankway. On higher ground, the trail bends northeast and reaches FR1100, a wide one-lane dirt road.
63.1 [3.0] CROSS FR1100
The trail continues eastward, dips across a creek on a bridge, and reaches the railroad grade.
63.6 [0.5] CROSS ESCANABA AND LAKE SUPERIOR RR GRADE
The trail continues to the east, crosses a small creek and passes a small pond, making small climbs and descents, then comes to FR1470, where there is a small parking area.
66.2 [2.6] CROSS FR1470
The trail continues east through a boggy area, then climbs slightly to reach the junction of the spur trail to Bob Lake National Forest Campground.
66.6 [0.4] SPUR TRAIL TO BOB LAKE NAIONAL FOREST CAMPGROUND
The spur trail runs north one mile to the fee campground, which has 17 campsites with vault toilets. The NCNST continues east, passes to the north of a small pond, descends to cross a small creek and climbs again, then descends to paved FH16, where there is a parking area.
67.9 [1.3] CROSS FH16
The trail continues east with moderate climbs and descents, makes a large descent, then is level for a short distance to FR1500. No parking is available.
68.7 [0.8] CROSS FR 1500
Heading on east in moderate climbs and descents, the trail crosses two logging roads and a fairly large stream, crossing into Houghton County. The climbs and descents steepen up until descening to a marshy area. The trail climbs, crosses an old woods road, crosses another stream on a plank bridge, thrn continues the ups and downs, and continues out to the corner of FR1360 and Laird Road, where there is a parking space.
72.4 [4.7] CROSS SOUTH LAIRD ROAD
The trail crosses the road in a northeasterly direction, turns east to parallel the road, crosses an open field, then comes back out to S. Laird Road, which it follows east in a roadwalk.
73.5 [1.1] CROSS SOUTH LAIRD ROAD AGAIN
South Laird Road turns to the north and continues with the same name. The trail heads on east, circles a beaver pond, crosses the outlet creek, then continues east, then descends to the south, crosses Boulder Creek, and climbs gradually to a woods road, which it follows for a ways, then reaches Silver River for a log crossing. The trail climbs, levels out, dips across a couple of tiny creeks, and reaches FR2270, where there is a parking area.
75.2 [1.7] CROSS FR2270
A short distance to the south, there is a road that leads to a parking area for the trail to the top of Silver Mountain, where you can see the Sturgeon River Valley, a deep gorge. The NCT follows a ridge for a ways, then makes a steep descent into a valley, follows an old lane and joins FR2270 again to cross the Sturgeon River.
76.0 [0.8] STURGEON RIVER BRIDGE
The trail ascends to the top of a ridge, veers southeast, then to the south, to follow a well-marked series of old woods roads, and passes a couple of ponds, the last water source until reaching the Sturgeon River ten miles away. The trail continues southeastward among old sand roads, and follows a small ridge to FR2200, where there is a small parking area. About a mile before the end of this section, the trail crosses into Baraga County.
79.5 [3.5] CROSS FR2200
Continuing southeast, dips through a valley, and makes gradual climbs and descent. Trail markers are reportly sparse, but the treadway is generally visible. The trail turns south, and reaches FR2240; there is a parking area.
82.0 [2.5] CROSS FR2240
The trail is now passing through "The Baraga Plains", a glacial outwash plain, The trail continues south through the jack pine plantation, and crosses the sand FR2236. There is no parking space.
83.5 [1.5] CROSS FR2236
The trail turns south through the pine planting, then veers to the east, then northeast. A small seasonal pond is passed, but cannot be considered a reliable water source. Shortly after, the trail crosses a one-lane forest road, the boundary of the Ottawa National Forest.
84.9 [1.4] OTTAWA NF BOUNDARY
For half a mile the trail is on state land, then on land owned by the Wisconsin Electric Power Company. The trail turns east, and shortly after crossing the forest border follows an abandoned two-rut road for a ways, passes through more open woods, then descends to the Sturgeon River, which it follows for about a mile. There is an unmarked side trail down to Tibbets Falls to the south. The trail continues to follow the river, then ascends the bluff and goes through a dense, brushy area until reaching Baraga Plains Road.
87.4 [2.5] CROSS BARAGA PLAINS RD.
The trail uses the bridge at Baraga Plains Road to cross the river to the south, follows an old woods road, then leaves the road to cross Nestor Creek, follows it for a distance, then joins another old woods road to reach the trailhead.
89.0 [1.6] TIBBETS FALLS TRAILHEAD
Description of this segment ends at this point.