Michigan has the largest percentage of the NCT of any of the seven states, and the most certified miles. Still, there are many miles to go; only about half of the NCT route in Michigan is certified, most of it in the northern two thirds of the state. Because of the great distance of trail in Michigan, and the significant divide -- not only geographical, but cultural, as well -- at the Mackinaw Bridge, separating the upper and lower peninsulas, Michigan will be discussed in two sections.
MICHIGAN'S UPPER PENINSULA: Michigan's upper peninsula is a wild, rolling land, with lots of forests and a thin population. The area retains a distinctive flavor all its own, based partly on a heavily Scandanavian immigration of a hundred years ago, much of which is still reflected in a notable regional accent, still noticable in some fourth and fifth generation descendants. "Yoopers", as they sometimes call themselves, carry a certain disdain for "Trolls", those that live "down below" the Mackinac Bridge, partly because the "UP" is a different place than the lower peninsula, thanks to the wild nature and thin population, and partly due to the distance _ it's farther from Ironwood to Detroit than it is from Detroit to New York, and in more ways than just miles. There are foods special to the region, too; from one end of the peninsula to the other, you can buy Cornish meat pies, filled with meat and vegetables, called "pasties"; they make good eating for a hungry hiker at the end of a long day or a long section, and there are plenty of those in the UP.
Most of the NCNST in the UP is heavily forested. A big chunk lies in two National Forests, the Ottawa and the Hiawatha. Smaller segments lie in Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, and in Lake Superior State Forest. Five state parks are also part of the trail, and much forest country held privately for timber management. The trail can be rugged, especially for the first hundred miles, and is mostly rolling to flat after that. Only on the northern reaches of Minnesota's "Arrowhead" does the trail pass through a wilder area, and then not much wilder. Wildlife abounds; deer and beaver are common, wolves and moose are rare but present, and bear are common, but not more so than, say, Great Smoky Mountain National Park; bear precautions are usually the rule. For long-distance hikers, resupply points are few and far between; even maildrops can be difficult in a couple of sections.
The route described here follows the "Michigan Mapset", distributed by the North Country Trail Store. In general, the Michigan Mapset will be adequate for the long-distance hiker, although other options for maps will be discussed as appropriate. In some areas, as noted, the appropriate Hutchins Guide, also available from the Trail Store, will be valuable.
0.0 [0.0] WISCONSIN STATE LINE
The roadwalk picks up at the Wisconsin state line, on the US2 bridge over the Montreal River. The trail heads east into Ironwood, following US2. After about 0.5 mile, pass a full-service, developed campground.
IRONWOOD, MI, 49338 (Pop. 7551), named after a geologist by the name of Wood who discovered the vast iron ore deposit of the Gogebic Iron Range. Ironwood is the first good supply point since Duluth, and the last good one for long-distance hikers for the next 200 miles, fortunately it can stock most needs. LODGING: Indianhead Motel, (906) 932-2031; Comfort Inn, (906) 932-2224; Super 8 (F&S only Dec-Mar), (906) 932-3395; Royal Motel, on US2 1/2 mile E of US51, (906) 932-4230. RESTAURANTS: Full range, fast food to fancy. GROCERIES: Supermarket. OTHER: laundromat, hardware, sporting goods, bank, pharmacy, doctor, dentist, hospital. FOR MORE INFORMATION about visitor opportunities in Ironwood and the western U.P., contact Western U.P. Convention and Visitors Bureau, PO Box 706, Ironwood MI 49938, (906) 932-4850, FAX (906) 932-3455.
1.8 [0.8] REACH CR 505
The roadwalk turns north on County Road 505 (Jackson Street).
5.8 [4.0] REACH CR 204
The roadwalk turns east on CR 204, another paved road.
8.8 [3.0] AUVIGNON CORNER
The roadwalk turns north on CR505 (Lake Superior Road). After about four miles, there is a fork to the left to the Copper Peak Area; the roadwalk takes the right fork. Copper Peak is about a mile ahead on the left.
14.8 [6.0] COPPER PEAK
From the fork, the trail continues a mile and a half to the Chippewa Falls parking lot, which is to the east. To the west of the road, Ironwood's Copper Peak is the only ski flying hill in the Americas and is one of six in the world. This 24-story high scaffold with its 435 foot ramp catapults jumpers at 60-65 miles per hour for flights of over 500 feet. Can you look at this without thinking of "The agony of defeat"? Enter Ottawa National Forest.
OTTAWA NATIONAL FOREST: The 954,000 acre Ottawa National Forest is located in the western end of the Upper Peninsula. This area is known for its hearty, friendly people as well as its rolling hills, hardwood forests, fishing, hunting, waterfalls, and spectacular fall colors. CAMPING is permitted anywhere on Ottawa National Forest lands, unless otherwise prohibited. One developed campground is located along this segment. Bear are common throughout the fores; bear precautions should be taken. INFORMATION: Forest Supervisor, Ottawa National Forest, 2100 E. Cloverland Drive, Ironwood MI 49938. (906) 932-1330. Other information: Hutchins Guide (Ottawa National Forest), available from NCTA Trail Store. MAPS: The Forest Brochure on the NCNST, "Ottawa National Forest West" is adequate to get through this section.
15.5 [0.7] CHIPPEWA FALLS TRAILHEAD
BLACK RIVER CANYON: "The most impressive falls, cascades and rapids of the entire trip," Gordon Smith wrote of this section in his story of eight months on the NCT with Ed Talone and Sue Lockwood. "The diversity of the rocks and the excellent viewing points constructed by the Ottawa National Forest made the five and a half mile trek along the Black River a memorable excursion. The most avid waterfalls fan would quickly put this cascading waterway near the top of any list of waterfalls areas visited."
The trail leaves the parking lot in a northeasterly direction and descends gradually before reaching the Black River. It follows the river northward for a short distance filled with short climbs and descents. The trail follows the river for some distance, past an overlook for Algonquin Falls, before mostly leveling out. The sound of the river is never far away, and the trail improves upon reaching Great Conglomerate Falls.
18.9 [3.4] GREAT CONGLOMERATE FALLS
Great Conglomerate Falls is one of the more stunning flumes on this section of trail. A side trail leads to a parking lot, about .4 miles west, but the NCT continues to follow the river. To the east of the trail, there are several overlooks, and occasionally steps down to the various falls, such as Gorge Falls. Interpretive signs are seen along the way; this is a well-marked, heavily-used pathway. A side trail leads down to Sandstone Falls; the NCT joins the northbound blacktop road and follows alongside. The trail turns to Rainbow Falls; where it descends to the falls begin, then turns north to follow the river along a blacktop tourist trail, and crosses a parking lot for the campground before reaching the suspension bridge over the Black River. The old fishing village and small boat harbor at the mouth of the Black River, is one of the most picturesque areas on Lake Superior. The developed campground at Black River Harbor has 40 campsites, flush toilets, a picnic area, swimming beach, and charter boat fishing.
21.4 [2.5] BLACK RIVER BRIDGE
The bridge is a long, high suspension bridge leading to the east side of the river; Lake Superior is only a short distance below it. After crossing the bridge, the well-developed trail climbs to the east, and turns south along a bluff, then descends sharply to Rainbow Falls.
22.4 [1.0] RAINBOW FALLS
Turning away from the roar of the Black River waterfalls, the trail turns to the east and resumes the character of a nice woods walk with some ups and downs, and reaches a closed forest road, where it continues up and down for 3.4 miles before reaching CR 519.
26.7 [4.3] CROSS CR 519
The trail crosses CR519, and heads east, then north for 0.7 miles to a minor gated gravel road which leads to a private camp. The trail follows the road east for a snort distance, then turns north into Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park. This new trail segment toward Presque Isle Campground was recently certified. After leaving the road, it turns to the north and generally stays within a hundred feet of CR519 until reaching the Backpacker parking lot at Presque Isle River Campground. NOTE: Some Ottawa NF maps show the NCT following South Boundary Road eastbound. A relo has made the trailhead farther north.
PORCUPINE MOUNTAINS WILDERNESS STATE PARK, known almost universally as "The Porkies" contains 58,000 acres, and is one of the few remaining large wilderness areas in the midwest. While the mountains are not big, the terrain is fairly rugged, with steep grades. The wildness of the area and the many overlooks make it one of the most popular backpacking destinations in the midwest; over 85 miles of trails are maintained. Some trails have been heavily used, with many exposed tree roots, but are otherwise in excellent condition. In the opinion of some the NCNST does not penetrate the most spectacular region of the park, and there are plenty of alternative routes. The NCNST, however, does provide a good cross-section of the park, and on trails that do not receive the highest levels of use. CAMPING is permitted at trailside, at least .25 mi. from any cabin, Adirondack shelter, scenic area or road. Campers must contact the park for permits, as there is a daily fee. Several primitive campgrounds are near the NCT route, as are four trailside cabins. The cabins are for use by reservation only. Bear are common; bear precautions should always be taken. INFORMATION: Information and cabin reservations from: Park Manager, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, 599 M-107, Ontonagon, MI 49953 (906) 885-5275. Other information: Hutchins Guide (Ottawa National Forest), available from NCTA Trail Store.
PRESQUE ISLE RIVER CAMPGROUND is .1 miles to the north, at the mouth of the Presque Isle River along the western boundary of Porcupine Mountains State Park. This developed fee campground has 88 campsites, flush toilets, running water, showers, and a picnic area; it's open mid-May to Labor Day.
30.3 [4.5] PRESQUE ISLE CG TRAILHEAD
The trailhead is located in a parking lot at Presque Isle River Campground. The trail (named "The Lake Superior Trail") leaves the parking lot trailhead in a northerly direction, and passes two side trails, to Manido and Manabezho Falls, then descends a flight of steps to the suspension bridge over the Presque Isle River. A second river crossing comes shortly; this is often under water during flood periods. Otherwise, it is a dry rock hop.
30.1 [0.3] PRESQUE ISLE RIVER BRIDGE
The Lake Superior Trail ascends sharply, and reaches a junction with the East River Trail, which follows the east side of the river upstream. The Lake Superior Trail parallels the coastline somewhat inland, then descends into the valley of Speakers Creek. Speakers Cabin is on a short side trail.
32.4 [2.6] SPEAKERS CABIN
The trail turns somewhat inland, heading east, and continues to cross ravines. After about 0.5 mile, the Speakers Cabin access trail leads south to South Boundary Road. The Lake Superior Trail and the NCT turn northeast shortly after the trail junction, and after about a mile cross Kenabeek Creek, then follows a long-abandoned road. Leaving the road, the trail crosses several ravines, then climbs up out of a valley, follows a bluff, then turns north to close with the shoreline, about 100 feet away at the close point. The trail turns inland again, crosses more ravines and creeks, reacheing a junction with the Pinkerton Creek Trail, which leads south 3 miles to South Boundary Road. Shortly after the trail junction, the Lake Superior Trail descends a flight of wooden steps, and comes to a wood bridge over the Little Carp River. Lake Superior is visible at the river mouth to the north.
36.0 [3.6] LITTLE CARP RIVER BRIDGE
Just past the bridge, the NCT leaves the Lake Superior Trail and turns southeast to follow the Little Carp River Trail, with turbulent rapids, inspiring waterfalls and big timber. Several developed campsites requiring permits are located in this area. The trail heads upstream close to the river, and shortly passes Trader's Falls. About a mile past the Lake Superior Trail Junction, the trail crosses the river on rocks, and continues on the south side, climbs to the top of the bluff to the west, where the river can't be seen, all the time clambering over tree roots and cutting across ravines.
40.9 [2.3] CROSS TRAIL JUNCTION
The Cross Trail leads back northwest to Lake Superior. Shortly after the trail junction, two more trail cabins are passed. The trail descends to the river again, passes Greenstone Falls, and makes a gradual ascent to the first of two trail junctions that lead to a parking area on Little Carp River Road. The trail turns back to the northeast again, leaves the river, and after about 1.5 mile again crosses the river on steppingstones, then climbs out of the valley.
42.2 [2.3] JOIN LILY POND TRAIL
Lily Pond and the Lily Pond Cabin are on the Little Carp River Trail north from the junction of Lily Pond Trail. The NCT follows Lily Pond Trail eastward. The trail continues a moderate climb to the eastward, with less of the continuous climbs and descents.
44.3 [2.1] LILY POND TRAILHEAD
This segment ends at the small parking lot for the Lily Pond Trail, located on Summit Peak Rd. north of South Boundary Road.