Following the North Country National Scenic Trail by Wes Boyd, NCTA Magazine Editor
Following the  North Country  National Scenic Trail: Preface Introduction Jump to New York Jump to Pennsylvania Jump to Ohio Jump to Lower Michigan Jump to Upper Michigan Jump to Wisconsin Jump to Minnesota Jump to North Dakota      Explore the Trail Trail Focus Articles End-to-End Journals		Following is a draft of the third edition of "Following the North Country Trail," the overview of the trail published by the North Country Trail Association. Keeping current on the trail is a job, and errors do creep in. If you find something to comment or criticize, please e-mail our magazine editor Wes Boyd so things can be corrected prior to publication. Preface Since people first began studying the concept of the North Country Trail, and since Congress authorized it in 1980, progress toward the completion of the 4500-mile plus trail has been about as good as could be expected -- but it's still America's most unknown major hiking trail. When the Bureau of Outdoor Recreation first began to study the idea of a major hiking trail through the boreal forests of New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota and North Dakota, they thought there were about 300 miles of existing trail that could be incorporated into the project. Today, though only about 1500 miles of trail have been certified by the National Park Service, there are about 2500 miles miles of trail more or less along the route that can be considered usable. In 1982, the Park Service estimated that the trail would be about 3250 miles long. Better information, and some route changes, have brought the figure to today's 4150, and an anticipated trail relocation in Minnesota, if completed, will add about another 400 miles.
Many people ask, "When will the trail be completed?" Not soon. Being an enthusiast about the North Country National Scenic Trail gives a person a chance to learn patience, tempered perhaps by the thought that the much shorter and easier to build Appalachian Trail, started in 1927, still isn't considered complete. The North Country Trail will be some trail when it's done. In fact, it's some trail today. "The diversity of the landscapes and features along the North Country Trail," according to the National Park Service, "is perhaps its most appealing quality. It beckons the potential user to come and sample a cross section of midwestern and northeastern America and captivates the mind of one on the trail with a kaleidoscope of scenes of a developing America and the wild, undeveloped resources from which it grew. The hiker will experience the grandeur of the Adirondack Mountains, the tranquillity of the rural farm countryside, the splendor of placid lakes and sparkling streams among forested hills, the boundlessness of the northern prairie, the merging of water and sky at the horizon of the Great Lakes, and the nostalgia of historic canals and abandoned logging and mining villages." One of the delights of the North Country Trail is that it's still a trail awaiting discovery. Though some segments get fairly heavy use, it's still lightly used in most places where it's been completed. Hundreds of people, for example, hike the Appalachian Trail end to end each year; dozens, the Pacific Crest Trail and a handful the still-forming Continental Divide Trail. The North Country Trail Association knows of only four people who have gone end-to-end on the North Country Trail, the most recent in 1994. The sheer size of the trail, too, has defeated efforts to boil it down into a trail guide, though one is in the works, and should be published by the year 2000. This book stops well short of being a trail guide. The aim is to give the reader the information necessary to find out what they need to know to follow the trail; to look into the future a ways to see what new trail developments can be expected; and, on occasion, give a little local color, a bit of reasoning for certain decisions, a few tips and some warnings, and maybe an idea or two. Hopefully, some dreamers will put this down, write some letters, then pick up a pack and go, whether for a day hike or an end-to-end marathon. -- Wes Boyd Back to the top The North Country Trail: Still growing, still changing The North Country National Scenic Trail (NCNST, for the correct abbreviation, but NCT is also commonly used) is ultimately administered by the National Park Service, which is responsible for development on federal lands, little of which is Park Service land. Most federal land along the NCNST is U.S. Forest Serv ice land, and the Forest Service has generally been unstinting in their support of the trail. Much of the remainder is on various state-owned public lands; the various state conservation/resource departments have not always been as supportive. A significant percentage of the trail will be on privately held lands, and development of these is mostly in the hands of volunteers, led by the North Country Trail Association (NCTA), its chapters scattered among the states and supporting groups, among them the Finger Lakes Trail Conference (FLTC) and Buckeye Trail Association (BTA). Since a vast array of agencies and groups each has a piece of the NCT pie, much is not exactly the same from one place to the next. Take trail marking, for example: fully completed ("certified", in Park Service jargon) segments are supposed to bear markers with the NCT logo -- an eight-pointed star -- along with any local designators. However, less than half of the usable NCT is certified, and some certified segments do not have the star. Trail marking standards and blazes vary from place to place, and while an effort is under way to standardize blazes on a light blue color, it's far from complete. The National Park Service recognizes two categories of North Country Trail: certified and connecting. Except in some special circumstances, certified trail is located off roads, and motorized vehicles are restricted. Connecting sections are uncertifiable, usually because of their location on roads or motorized trails; though many miles of usable trail are located on such segments, for various reasons only a relative handful have been designated as "marked connectors". Tthere are many miles of marked trails on roads that could be classified as connecting sections, according to the official designation, and many other miles of marked or easily followed trail that are open and could serve as a route -- but are listed as neither, officially. For the purposes of this book, we'll sweep aside all the bureaucracy involved in these designations, and just call trail "usable" or not. Usable trail means there is a marked or easily followed route; where no usable trail exists, the user will ha ve to dig out his map and find roads to follow to the next trailhead. On a few shorter segments of trail, especially in various parks, the available trailheads do not make a lot of sense to the long-distance user, since they are designed for use within the park. Eventually, there will be outside connections; but in the meantime, the long-distance user should be prepared to find certified trail that isn't very useful. A significant percentage of trail, especially in New York and some in other states, is located on private lands. Users sould be especially careful to respect the rights of private property owners, particularly those who have generously allowed trails to cross their land. Users should also show their appreciation for the voluntary participation of various agencies and groups by properly using the trail and related facilities and complying with the rules and regulations applicable to each segment. Trail routing and width decisions for the trail are influenced by the surrounding land uses, terrain, need for and availability of sight and sound buffers, and the ease or difficulty of securing trail lands; the lands associated with the trail can vary from a 2-foot wide treadway to a 1000 foot wide greenway. "It is not intended," the 1982 Comprehensive Plan states "that the North Country Trail should completely isolate the user from land use practices surrounding the trail, but rather allow the trave ler to enjoy the mosaic of resources and land uses through which the trail passes. Even resource management activities such as timber cutting are not out of harmony with the management of the North Country Trail." Trail standards vary from place to place as well, ranging from broad, paved touring bicycle paths with many supporting facilities, to thin blazed scratches through the woods, where no amenities have been developed. All segments of the North Country Trail are open to travel by foot: hiking and backpacking, and the trail is generally managed as a hiking trail. However, other non-motorized uses, including bicycling, horseback riding, mountain bikes, dog sledding, cross country skiing, snowshoeing and jogging may be permitted on a given segment, as decided by the local managing authority responsible. While hikers can go anywhere, they should remember that some trail segments were not necessarily designed as hiking trail, nor built by hikers. Most private and public lands through which the NCT passes are legally open to hunting during the proper seasons. It is not intended that passage of the NCT through these lands should in any way lead to their closure to hunters, nor that the trail should be closed to use during hunting seasons. Hikers using the trail during hunting seasons should wear bright orange or yellow clothing, and avoid brown or white. Most experienced hikers avoid the woods during the local rifle deer hunting seasons. Some local authorities have established fees or permits for use of segments of the trail or supporting facilities, such as campsites. Some permits are available in advance by mail; others may only be obtained in person at the site or segment. Facilities for and policies regarding camping along the North Country Trail vary greatly. Some managing authorities permit camping anywhere along the trail; others, only at designated sites. In some cases the trail may be open but designated campsites not yet established. Planning is often needed, even on long-established trail segments. Where the trail goes through lands that are largely privately held, or on unusable segments, many property owners will allow overnight pack camping; users shoul d always get permission from the property owner before pitching camp. Above all, avoid trespassing and violating private property rights; it may make the future development of the trail in that area all that much more difficult. Sad to say, but no surface water anywhere along the North Country Trail can be considered safe without treatment. In fact, well water in some more agricultural areas -- especially northern Ohio and eastern North Dakota --is starting to become suspect due to nitrate and pesticide contamination. In general, small amounts of water from a well in regular human use in these areas is probably no worse than drinking any city water. Some sections go a surprisingly long way between places where water is available, so study the route and plan accordingly. Hikers following roads should be constantly aware of the problems of road safety, walking facing opposing traffic and giving vehicles the right of way. Long-distance users should select roads where traffic is light whenever possible. Plan for variable weather conditions anywhere along the trail, but consider the season and plan accordingly. Prolonged rain is not unknown any time during the warmer months anywhere along the trail (though less likely in the westernmost segments). In times of drought, fire hazards can be quite high, and open fires may be prohibited. The use of a camp stove for fire safety is recommended in any season. At any time from early May to late September, anywhere along the trail, mosquitoes can be a problem, though some places are worse than others. Black flies also can be a problem in places during the right season. Carry appropriate repellants. Finishing the trail will be a long process, mostly because a lot of the trail is being built by volunteers, in many cases without much government support, and sometimes in the face of active government opposition. As a user, don't be angry because a particular segment of the trail isn't completed yet. The best thing you can do is help complete it, and the first thing to do to help is to join the North Country Trail Association; the association is headquartered at 229 E. Main St, Lowell, MI 49331. Information: How to find the trail Maps and information about the trail have improved steadily in the past few years, and should improve dramatically in the next few. On most usable segments of the trail, topographic maps really aren't necessary, though they are useful. Using no maps at all, however, is foolish. On most usable segments, maps, booklets, guides, etc., published by the local managing authority usually are sufficient to provide route information, and the appropriate addresses are provided in this text. In four areas -- western New York, the greater part of Ohio, all of Michigan, and northern Minnesota -- various groups have published detailed trail maps of varying degrees of quality. The North Country Trail Association stocks these maps in the North Country Trail Store, 229 E Main St, Lowell, MI 49331. Availability varies, but they can be contacted at 616-897-5987 or 1-866-hikeNCT , or faxed at 616-897-6605. The North Country Trail Association is in the early phases of developing a multicolor topographic trail map, far more accurate than those available anywhere else, using GPS and computerized technology; the Finger Lakes Trail Conference has a similar program under way for western New York. Though it will be many years before these maps are complete, the first of them will be available soon from the North Country Trail Store. At this writing, the North Country Trail has defied all efforts to develop a single, standardized guide. However, one has been in preparation for a couple of years, and most likely will be available from the North Country Trail Store and other sources by the year 2000. Due to the length of trail involved, however, this guide will be somewhat superficial; though generally adequate to follow the trail, and with complete sketch maps to the trail, many will prefer the more detailed information available for smaller segments. For example, Certified Sections of the North Country Trail, by Byron and Margaret Hutchins, provides accurate route descriptions by an experienced guidebook writer who walked the sections with a measuring wheel. Not all certified segments are yet covered at this writing, but to date many of the segments long enough to be a weekend or week's hiking destination have been covered, with more to come in the future. Segments published as of 1998 include Pennsylvania's Allegheny National Forest and Cook State Forest; Ohio's Wayne National Forest, Burr Oak to Sinking Spring, Sinking Spring to Milford, Little Miami Scenic Park, and the Miami and Erie Trail; several areas in Michigan; Wisconsin's Chequamegon National Forest and Brule River State Forest; Minnesota's Chippewa National Forest, and North Dakota's Sheyenne National Grasslands and Lonetree Wildlife Management Area. The discussions are published in a loose- leaf form. The whole set is available from the North Country Trail Store for $26.50 (as of July 1998) plus $2.00 shipping. Individual map sets are available at various prices; contact the North Country Trail Store for more information. (NOTE: Prices stated in anywhere in the text are subject to change. Contact the Trail Store or other information source for the latest information!) There are also many other local sources of information, on each of the national forest segments, and on other segments. This will be detailed below as the trail discussion reaches that point. On unusable segments, where the hiker must find his way to the next trailhead, users will generally be following roads, so a good county map usually is sufficient. County maps are usually available from the Chamber of Commerce of the appropriate county, usually located at the county seat. Also, DeLorme Map Company, PO Box 298-5600, Freeport, Maine, 04032 has book maps of approximately county map scale available for all the NCT states, at prices rangi ng from $12.95 to $14.95 each. These maps generally show somewhat more detail than the typical county map. There are also getting to be many computerized maps available on CD that give county road information. Getting Back: Yes, this is a linear trail There has been criticism aimed at the North Country Trail for being a linear, rather than a loop trail. "How," some of these criticisms go, "can you expect to get any degree of use where the user has to mess around with getting back to his car?" Unfortunately, public transportation in this country is a joke. Although with research, the potential user of the NCT can occasionally find public transportation of one nature or another that will be of use to return him to the trailhead, this is rare. Schedules are rarely convenient, and Murphy's Law says that usually the stage lengths don't fit together right. Over the entire length of the trail, there are only two places where a public transportation system has been fitted to trail use -- at the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Michigan's upper peninsula, and along a segment of the Superior Trail on Minnesota's north shore. How, then, does the trail user get back to the trailhead? Former NCTA Board Member Chris Bredlow wrote, "Out my back door I prefer to go on circular trails. But if I drive over 200 miles, I become smarter and figure out ways to use lineal trails. On river canoeing close to home, I use two cars. On river canoeing in Canada, I use one car and hire a bush pilot. On hiking the Appalachian Trail in the Smokies, I left my car at a resort at one end and contracted a resorter to drive me to the trail head. On the Bruce Trail in Ontario, I went into a local restaurant and found someone to drive me to the trail head and keep my car for me. In the Nantahalas, I examined the map and found that the Appalachian Trail intersected other trails so I made a circu lar hiking route (there are several possibilities for partial or complete trail loops involving the NCT) . . . one of my favorite ways of using a lineal hiking trail is to plant my car at one end and ride my bicycle back on the road to the trail head. After I finish the hike I have to drive back for the bicycle. I have never used train or bus, and I really think I am not unique. When people go over 200 miles to hike or use a lineal trail, they become smarter and find ways that they wouldn't even think about for a trail back home." Don't forget contacting local managing authorities, trail clubs or NCTA members along the route. They may have some good ideas, or be able to help you out. Back to the top New York: The NCT in the Empire State Almost any literature that you can find on the North Country Trail says that the trail will begin at Crown Point, NY, near the bridge across Lake Champlain into Vermont. Crown Point might be considered a somewhat odd place to start the NCT, but it is a legacy of the early planning of the trail. In the early planning stages of the NCT, the intention was that the trail would connect with the Appalachian Trail via Vermont's Long Trail. Wary of adding to already heavy use on its historic pathway, Vermont opted out of the plan, but the North Country Trail's planners left the door open for the future by keeping the Crown Point gateway. Even so, Crown Point is still isolated from the nearest usable portion of the NCT by a hundred and fifty miles. Plans for the trail are to head westward through the six million acre Adirondack Park. The general route through the park was identified by the New York Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) as a starting point from which to begin the complicated "Unit Management Planning" process required by the State Land Master Plan for the 2,300,000 acres of public land administered by the DEC. However, concerns about increased use of the High Peaks area of the Adirondacks led to nothing being done about this route for fifteen years. In 1995, the impasse started to be broken by the identification of the possibility of a new route through the southern part of the Adirondacks, avoiding the High Peaks area; by 1997, a general route through the area had been identified, with some existing trail to be worked into the plan. Since then, detailed planning has been under way, although a specific route has yet to be marked. In general, the new route through the Adirondacks is generally north of but fairly close to NY State Route 8, though sometimes south of it. The Congressionally-authorized route of the North Country NST begins at Crown Point State Historic Site near the bridge across Lake Champlain into Vermont. The site is notable because of the Revolutionary War and War of 1812 fortifications still to be seen there; Lake Champlain was much fought over in the two wars. Over the years since 1982, no attempt has ever been made to anchor the east end of the trail because of the Adirondack controversy. The park has an existing series of interpretive trails and cross country ski trails that traverse the park from near the bridge, all the way to the park's south boundary. It's about five miles to the edge of Adirondack State Park; there is the possibility that an abandoned rail grade -- currently in private ownership and unavailable -- could be used to get there from Crown Point. In the past, some of the few long-distance NCT hikers used existing trails through the High Peaks and down the Fulton Chain, but the new route is to the south of that. Until the general route for the new Adirondack route is published, SR8 would seem to offer the long-distance hiker the best current path across the Adirondack area. Information on trails in the Adirondacks is available from the Adirondack Mountain Club, RR3, Box 3055, Lake George, NY 12845. West of the Adirondacks, the potential route of the trail begins to take shape at Forestport., where the Black River Feeder Canal begins and heads west to Boonville. The old towpath along the canal has always been considered as the route of the trail, though the route is open to snowmobiles, ATVs, and highway vehicles. South from Boonville, the Towpath Trail, Operated by BREIA (the Black River Environmental Improvement Association, is a well maintained cross country skiing and hiking trail extending along the towpath of the Black River Canal to beyond Pixley Falls State Park--a distance of 7 to 8 miles. For more information on Pixley Falls State Park and the surrounding area, contact the park at 11430 Rt. 46, Boonville, NY 13309. (315) 942-4713. About a mile south of Pixley Falls, the towpath is no longer continuous, but local roads and Delta Lake State Park can get the user south to the sidewalks of Rome. Trail users will find a stop at Fort Stanwix, located in the center of Rome, to be an educational experience. This completely recreated Revolutionary War era fort was the only fort that actually sustained a British siege without surrendering. There were other forts that didn't surrender but, they were not under siege. Fort Stanwix is one of but a few sites of National Park Service land along this National Park Service Trail. More information about the area is available from the Rome Area Chamber of Commerce; contact them at 200 Liberty Plaza, Rome, NY 13440. At the west edge of Rome, hikers will find Old Erie Canal Village a restored canal town. In addition to tours of the village, one can actually take a ride on an authentic canal boat. A towpath trail can be walked across the property. Just beyond the village is the eastern end of Old Erie Canal State Park. This linear park includes an existing trail that can be followed all the way to the point where the North Country Trail needs to head south to reach the Finger Lakes Trail. It is a multiple use trail, surfaced with crushed rock. While the route isn't certifiable -- it's open to snowmobiles -- it provides an off-road route westward. very acceptable from a scenic and hiking standpoint, a major problem is that it is also a snowmobile trail. So far, we have not talked with the State to discuss our options about the snowmobiles. In the meantime, the trail provides an off- road route even if it isn't certifiable. Information on this segment can be obtained by writing to Old Erie Canal State Park, Kirkeville, NY 13082. The distance between Old Erie Canal State Park and the main Finger Lakes Trail is about 40 miles. The FLT-Onondaga Branch Trail spans perhaps half of this distance offering one north- south link possibility. The 1982 plan shows it as the route for the trail. However, over the years, FLTC has wisely followed the course of not applying for certification on either the branch trail or the main trail lying either north or east of the junction. This is another decision that has been based on the uncertainties in the Adirondacks. Another, more recent north-south link possibility is what is known as the Link Trail. This route lies east of the Onondaga Branch--mostly in Madison County. The Link Trail is strongly backed by Madison County officials and it too would make a nice north-south connection. "Seldom do we find ourselves in a position where we are faced with two good trail route opportunities through the same area," said NPS NCNST manager Bill Menke. "While both the Onondaga Branch and the Link Trail are close enough to the authorized route to become the official trail, we are taking the position that no decision will be made until FLTC and the ADK- Onondaga Chapter has had an opportunity to be involved in the decision." Information on the Link Trail is available from the Central New York Chapter of the NCTA, 328 Deepspring Drive, Chittenango, NY 13037. Information on the Onondaga Trail alternative can be had from the Finger Lakes Trail Conference Information Service Center, at the address given below. Once the user has reached the main branch of the Finger Lakes Trail (FLT), they've reached the first of several long-established, well-developed trails that the NCNST overlays; the FLT is one of the best developed by private interests. From the Onondaga Trail junction, usable trail stretches southwestward nearly 460 miles. The majority of this trail is on New York's Finger Lakes Trail System. The FLT is an east-west footpath system across the state from the Catskills in the east to the Alleghenys in the west. It passes south of the Finger Lakes, and has several branches extending north of the main east-west route. The trail passes through some of the most varied and beautiful country in the east -- forests, lakes, glacially sculpted hills and valleys, secluded glens and waterfalls. Of the 363 miles of the FLT that the NCT uses, only about 160 are fully certified by the National Park Service as of 1998. Considerably more is in progress; the user should be aware that most of the FLT fully meets the overall requirements for NPS certification, in that it is off-road, marked trail closed to vehicles. In order to keep up with the ever-changing Finger Lakes Trail, the hiker really needs a set of maps published by the FLTC. The NCT hiker will need 22 Finger Lakes Trail maps: M-1 through M-22, plus O-1 for the Onondaga Trail (two interesting extra s are mentioned later). The maps are available from the Finger Lakes Trail Conference Service Center, PO Box 18048, Rochester, NY 14618, or from the North Country Trail Store. Maps are 80 cents each; for 10 or more, 35 cents each. A full set of the 45 maps of the series is $14.00; these add the trail's several branches and the route to the Catskills. The FLTC maintains a policy that if a map is updated within two years of purchase, it will be replaced free upon return of the old map. Hikers should request a free brochure about the trail, along with a map order form. The FLTC also publishes several guidebooks, which cover about 250 of the miles the NCT uses. Also of interest is the "FLT End-to-end Guide for Backpackers", available from the FLTC Service Center or North Country Trail Store for $2.50. Trail descriptions on the maps range from none to pretty good; they read west to east. The older maps are rather crude, but the new series under development, with GPS overlays of topographic maps are excellent, if only available for a small section of the trail, as of 1998. Either kind of map gives good information about campsites, shelters, bivouac areas, water points and the like. One area the older maps do not give much information about is terrain; the FLT is quite hilly, so the hiker studying the route may want to refer to some large-scale topographic maps to get an idea of the terrain to be faced, but as the new series replaces the older maps this will become less of a problem. Unlike the rest of the NCNST, the FLT is blazed with white blazes on the main trail, with larger FLT yellow and green logos at trailheads and road crossings. Wooden signs or small plastic discs may be used. Side trails, like the Onondaga, are marked in blue or orange. Much of the FLT is on private land. The continued existence of the trail depends on trail users respecting the rights of the public-spirited landowners who have given permission for people to walk through their property. Users must stay on the trail and not camp or build fires except in designated areas. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are also permitted on the trail. All trails have been cleared for walking and are maintained, though maintenance is sometimes a little thin in areas of low use. Some shelters, campsites and bivouac areas have been completed, and more are being built as time and funds permit. The trailhead for the Onondaga Trail is about two miles west of Fabius. Users of this section will find "Guide to the Finger Lakes Trail, O'Dell Road to Chippewa Falls, Cortland County NY" by Anthony Preus, very helpful. (Available from FLTC Service Center or North Country Trail Store, $5.95.) It gives excellent detail from the Onondaga Trailhead southwest about 60 miles. The guide reads in both directions. After 24.5 miles on the Onondaga Trail, the hiker encounters the main FLT in Cuyler State Forest. Trail, the hiker encounters the main FLT in Cuyler State Forest. The trail meanders southwest, then west, through many miles of scenic countryside. Near Virgil, about 60 miles from the Onondaga trailhead, Preus' book comes to an end, but another guide picks up: "Guide to the Trails of the Finger Lakes Region," by the Cayuga Trails Club of Ithaca, NY. This pocket-sized book covers 119 miles of FLT, to the area of South Bradford, and comes with its own maps, which do show terrain. At Ithaca, the trail passes near the spectacular Buttermilk Falls; a mile later, it avoids another scenic gorge on a certified all-weather route through R. H. Treman State Park. Hikers in the summer months may prefer the spectacular route up the gorge, using the NCT for a loop trip. A map is available from R. H. Treman State Park, Ithaca, NY 14850. A few miles later, certified trail passes through the interesting Connecticut Hill Wildlife Area. Farther to the west, the trail reaches Watkins Glen. On the southeast side of Watkins Glen, hikers with enough time may wish to investigate the 9-mile Queen Catherine Scenic Trail, a loop trail through a marsh and passing Chequagua Falls. This loop may eventually be certified as the main route of the NCT. Use the map in "Guide to Trails of the Finger Lakes Region," or get map QCST from the FLTC Service Center. Located in the Finger Lakes region near the southern end of Seneca Lake just to the west of the Queen Catherine Scenic Trail, Watkins Glen State Park contains a spectacular gorge. Again, the FLT/NCT takes a certified all-weather route down the southern rim of the gorge, but hikers may prefer to take one of the other gorge trails. Contact Watkins Glen State Park, Box 304, Watkins Glen, NY 14618. About 28 miles southwest of downtown Watkins Glen, near South Bradford, the "Guide to the Trails of the Finger Lakes Region" comes to an end, and a new FLTC guidebook picks up: "The FLT in Steuben County, NY" follows the trail to Hornell. It's also available from the FLTC Service Center or the North Country Trail Store for $6.95. The trail rolls on westward for about 50 miles, then near Hornell, turns to the northwest for about another 20. At Hornell, the last FLTC guidebook picks up: "FLT: Conservation Trail to Hornell", available from the FLTC Service Center or the North Country Trail Store for $7.95. Near Portageville, an orange-blazed side trail, the Letchworth Trail (FLT Map L-1, from FLTC Service Center) leads north to the most spectacular gorge in New York, the Genesee River Gorge in Letchworth State Park. Information on the park is available from the park in Castile, NY 14227. The trail rolls on westward through steeply rolling countryside Eventually, near Ellicotville, the FLT and the NCNST join the Conservation Trail, a north-south branch of the Finger Lakes trail that was completed through to Niagara Falls in 1989. The trail now bends more to the south for about another 40 miles, until reaching Allegany State Park, on the New York - Pennsylvania border. The park contains more than 50 miles of scenic hiking trails and a special ski touring tr ail. The North Country/Finger Lakes/Conservation Trail meanders through the park to the Pennsylvania border, where it joins up with another 104 miles of usable NCT. Back to the top Pennsylvania - Keystone of the NCT Once the hiker crosses into Pennsylvania, there are still 104 miles of the first largely completed segment ahead. The initial 95 miles of the North Country Trail meanders through the rolling hills and stream valleys of the Allegheny (Pennsylvania spells it differently than New York) National Forest. Marked with white paint blazes and routed wooden signs, this northwestern Pennsylvania trail is one of the more established along the route of the NCT. A national forest since 1923, the forest has 512,000 acres. When you see the variety of tree and wildlife species, it's hard to believe that the area was called "The Allegheny Brushpatch" in the 1920s. Extensive logging a century ago left the area nearly barren. The original forest of beech, hemlock and sugar maple was cleared by settlers or logged by lumber companies who used narrow-gauge railroads to remove the trees; now a growth of black cherry, red maple, sugar maple, oaks, birch and beech h ave taken their place. The outstanding recreational opportunities of the Allegheny National Forest are enhanced by the Kinzua Dam. Completed in 1966, this flood-control facility harnesses the Allegheny Reservoir, a 12,000 acre impoundment. Snuggled in rugged plateau country, the forest's rolling, sometime steep topography, cut deeply by hundreds of miles of creeks and streams, boasts elevations ranging from 1,000 to 2,300 feet. The NCT passes through some unique old growth forests, the 4,080 acre Tionesta Natural and Scenic Area, and the 120 acre Heart's Content Scenic Area, boasting 300-year-old white pine. Seven National Forest campgrounds are located along or a short distance off the trail. In addition, primitive camping is permitted anywhere within the forest, but not within 1500 feet of the Allegheny Reservoir or roads along the reservoir. Other excellent trails maintained by the Forest Service, including the Black Cherry and Tracy Ridge National Recreation Trails, connect with the North Country Trail. Black bear are present in the forest, with hundreds of sightings each year. Bear precautions should be taken. The Allegheny National Forest, along with other national forests, has been working hard to improve the quality of informational material about the trail in the forest. A new and informative brochure on the trail in the forest, along with specially marked forest maps, is available from Allegheny National Forest, PO Box 847, Warren PA 16365. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail", by Byron and Margaret Hutchins, also has a section about the Allegheny National Forest and Cook State Forest, one of the best and most recent hiker's guides available about the area. It is available from the NCTA Bookstore for $4.50. The Allegheny Outdoor Club offers a patch for users completing the trail in the Allegheny National Forest. For more information, contact Don and Brita Dorn, Star Route Box 476, Sheffield, PA, 16347. At the south border of the Allegheny National Forest, the hiker follows a short section of the Baker Trail southward to Clear Creek State Forest. The Baker Trail is a 140-mile hiking trail established and maintained by American Youth Hostels, Inc., Pittsburgh Council, 6300 Fifth Ave., Pittsburgh, PA 15232. It extends from Freeport, PA, to the junction with the NCT in the Allegheny National Forest; unfortunately, the NCT only uses a few miles of this trail. Following the Baker Trail south, after about three miles the hiker enters Clear Creek State Forest. Here, a 1.5 mile segment of the Baker Trail is certified in this small, isolated parcel of state land. In addition to the official NCT markers, the segment is marked with yellow paint blazes and routed wooden signs. Trailside camping is permitted for one night only. For more information, contact District Forest Office, Pennsylvania Bureau of Forestry, Box 705, Clarion PA 16214. Immediately to the south, the NCT and the Baker Trail follow approximately 8 miles of the Cook Forest State Park's 27-mile trail network. This 6,422 acre park, created in 1927, preserves an original stand of white pines and hemlocks. It is now one of the largest stands of virgin timber in the state, and the trees are from 250 to 300 years old. In Cook Forest State Park, camping is permitted only at the 226-site developed campground, which is open year around, and at two group sites. The trail is marked with the official NCT marker and wooden signs. For additional information, contact Superintendent, Cook Forest State Park, PO Box 120, Cooksburg, PA 16217. About two miles southwest of Cook Forest, at the Gravel Lick Bridge, the planned route of the NCT departs southwestward from the southbound route of the Baker Trail, and the hiker is at the end of 470 miles of nearly-continuous marked and usable trail. It's about 100 miles from the Gravel Lick Bridge to Jennings Environmental Education Center north of Butler. Trail development in Pennsylvania has turned busy in the last few years, and several routes have been proposed, explored, and some rejected in favor of other routes, so the situation in this section is in flux. It's fair to say that this section is currently seeing some of the most intensive development of the trail by NCTA chapters anywhere along the route, and almost anything detailed over this area is likely to be outdated almost immediately. For the most current information about this segment, contact the North Country Trail Association to get contact persons.For the near future, though, the hiker will have to use county maps from Clairon and Butler Counties to find the way across low-use roads to the next steppingstone, in Moraine State Park, about 6 miles northwest of Butler, PA, on SR8. The trail picks up again at Jennings Environmental Education Center, at the east end of the park. A one-mile segment here joins with 13 more miles of the Glacier Ridge Trail in Moraine State Park. These trails are marked with blue paint blazes and the NCT markers. A wide variety of day-use facilities are found in the park, but no camping is allowed; several private campgrounds are in the vicinity, and a restaurant is located in the park. For information: Jennings Environmental Education Center, R D 1, Slipprey Rock, PA, 16057, and Superintendent, Moraine State Park, RD 1, Portersville PA 16051. The NCTA leases the Davis Hollow Cabin in Glacier Ridge State Park as a focal point for Pennsylvania chapter efforts. Construction of a 3-mile connection between Glacier Ridge State Park and McConnel's Mill State park is also under way. For the latest information, contact either park superintendent. At McConnel's Mill, the NCT uses 1.4 miles of the Alpha Pass and Kildoo Trails along Slippery Rock Creek; a three-mile extention to the west in McConnels Mill State Park is in development by the Keystone Trails Association. Day-use facilities and outstanding points of interest await the hiker. The gorge of the creek provides a scenic setting for the trail, which is marked with the NCT marker and routed wooden posts. Along the trail are a covered bridge and the restored McConnel's Grist Mill, a national historic landmark. For a map and brochure on the trail, write Superin tendent, McConnel's Mill State Park, RD 1, Portersville, PA 16051. Once past McConnel's Mill, the planned route of the NCT heads west-southwest for about 20 miles, using maps of Lawrence and Beaver Counties, to one of the newest segments of the NCT. In 1991, local NCT activists, working with a group that is promoting a scenic tourist railroad, were able to conclude an agreement for the purchase of former Montour Railroad line in western Pennsylvania and eastern Ohio, long seen as about the only possible route for an off-road trail, partly due to a bridge problem. Treadway for the trail, now under development, will share the right- of-way with this steam-operated railroad. While similar arrangements have been proposed elsewhere, this is the first time, at least along the NCT, that this has been done, and the route is not yet certified. This trail picks up at Darlington, Pennsylvania, about eight miles east of the state line, and follows the lightly-used railroad grade westward. While the rail traffic is both light and slow, hikers should remember that trains do not stop easily, so they have the right of way! While much work remains to be done on the North Country Trail in Pennsylvania, the state boasts the highest percentage of planned NCT certified in any of the seven states the North Country Trail crosses, and it's all very interesting trail. Back to the top Ohio - Heart of the NCT Largely due to the many years of work by the Buckeye Trail Association, the North Country Trail in Ohio is the most nearly completely usable of any of the seven states, even though much of the marked trail is located on roads. Twenty-four segments, totaling 287 miles (not all on the Buckeye Trail) have been certified as part of the NCT in Ohio. The NCT generally follows the Buckeye Trail, but diverges from it or is planned to in several locations. However, the Buckeye Trail is not all of the NCT in Ohio, and long distance users will have to penetrate a fair distance into the state before encountering the Buckeye Trail. Before they do, they encounter one spectacular state park, and a new trail system that has several unique features. The NCT enters the state near Negley, Ohio, on the former Montour railroad grade, which comes to an end near Fredricktown, Ohio. For the latest information on this still-developing part of the route, contact Sandy and Beaver Canal Association, attn: R. Baird Stewart, 215 West 12th Street, Salem OH 44460. It's still a roadwalk south from Negley to Beaver Creek State Park, the first certified trail encountered in Ohio, about six miles north of East Liverpool. The trail along Little Beaver Creek, a state scenic river and a component of the National Wild and Scenic River system, provi des a 6.25 mile certified segment. Numerous points of interest are located in the park, including Gaston's Mill and other historic building near the park headquarters, a covered bridge, and several stone locks of the old Sandy and Beaver Canal. There is camping in the park. For more information, contact Beaver Creek State Park, Rt. 1, Echo Dell Rd., East Liverpool OH 43930. To the west of the park, most land is in private ownership, including the old canal lands, which were never in state ownership, (unlike most of the rest of the canal lands of Ohio), which provide a unique resource for trail users. The Sandy and Beaver Canal Association, along with other local interests, has been working with the National Park Service on a formal plan to finish connecting the trail from the state line to Bolivar. The general route of the trail generally parallels US30, Ohio SR183 and other roads to the vicinity of Zoar, about 40 miles to the west of Beaver Creek State Park. However, until the NCT is completed in this area, the through-hiker is well advised to study county maps for Columbiana, Carrol and Tuscarawas Counties to find side roads that are less heavily used than these busy thoroughfares. Much of eastern Ohio both here and for a considerable distance to the west is coal country; the roads are narrow and the trucks are not, so even on side roads the walker should exercise plenty of caution. Though much clean-up of mine tailings has been done in recent years, users should be even more suspect than normal of surface water. At Zoar, about 12 miles of the south of Canton, the hiker first encounters the Buckeye Trail, which the NCT more or less follows for more than 600 miles around Ohio. First conceived in the 1950s, the trail has been planned, marked and maintained by the Buckeye Trail Association in cooperation with many agencies and individuals, including the Ohio Department of Natural Resources, Ohio Historical Society, US Forest Service, Muskingham and Miami Conservancy Districts, several metropolitan park districts, and other landowners. The goal of the Buckeye Trail Association is to eventually have the entire route of the trail off roads, but this will be a long time coming. Due to the heavy population in some areas and a high proportion of private land, only about half the route the NCT follows is off roads, usually but not always on public lands when off-road. However, some roads have quite low use and are the next thing to being abandoned. Portions of the Buckeye Trail which are presently routed along roads cannot be certified as the NCT route, as the National Trails System Act prohibits location on roads. As new off-road segments are developed, they will be certified, but in the meantime they can only be considered as being "usable" NCT. Portions of the Buckeye Trail are usable for bicycling and horseback riding. Horseback riders may use the trail, except in a few locations where horse use is prohibited. Where such limitations exist, an effort has been made to provide a marked bypass. Camping facilities are available at many locations along or near the trail. They are not always frequent enough to allow hikers trailside camping every night, but hikers can usually find facilities for overnight camping, given careful planning. As with the Finger Lakes Trail in New York, it would be difficult to follow the Buckeye Trail without using the maps provided by the Buckeye Trail Association, PO Box 254, Worthington, OH 43085, or from the North Country Trail Store. The accompanying route descriptions are generally better than those of the FLT maps, and most read east to west. The newest series of Buckeye Trail maps, printed on waterproof paper, are a huge improvement over earlier efforts. The NCT through-hiker will need 14 Buckeye Trail maps: from east to west, Massillion, Bowerston, Belle Valley, Stockport, New Straitsville, Old Man's Cave, Scioto Trail, Sinking Spring, West Union, Williamsburg, Loveland, Ceaser Creek, Troy, St. Marys, Delphos and Defiance. Map revisions are less frequent than those of the Finger Lake Trail. The Buckeye Trail is marked by light blue paint blazes on trees, poles, etc., usually within 10 feet of the trail. At intersections, or where the trail sharply changes direction, two blazes are used; in some cases, arrows are also used. The trail is blazed in both directions, but only frequently enough to give the user assurance that they are on the trail. Side trails and alternate routes are blazed in white. The North Country Trail picks up the Buckeye Trail at Zoar, a community with restored homes and shops that was the site of the first communal settlement in the US. The trail follows an old canoe towpath for a short distance southward from Zoar, then mostly follows roads southward, but using portions of Attwood Lake and Leesville Lake Recreation Areas, a longer segment in Tappan Lake Recreation Area, then shorter segments in Clendening and Piedmont Lake Recreation Areas. Information on these may be had from Muskingum Watershed Conservancy District, New Philadelphia, OH 44663. Several miles southwest of Piedmont Lake, the NCT has 7.8 miles in Salt Fork State Park. A campground and other facilities, including a lodge, restaurants and cabins are located here. Information may be obtained from Salt Fork State Park, Box 672, Cambridge OH 43725. From Salt Fork, the BT/NCT uses roads south to Seneca Lake Recreation Area, also operated by the Muskingum Conservancy District. South of Seneca Lake, the NCT is planned to leave the existing route of the Buckeye Trail and pass through the eastern unit of the Wayne National Forest, but to date only about 35 miles of the new route have been completed, isolated from other marked trail. This section of the Wayne National Forest borders the Ohio River, and covers 33,157 acres. Federal ownership is scattered, and only about 20% of the land in its boundaries is publicly owned. It lies entirely within the unglaciated portion of the Allegheny Plateau Region, and is characterized by high hills heavily dissected with steep drainages and small streams. These foothills of the Appalachian Mountains are underlain with sandstone, siltstone, shale and thin coal seams which tend to be poorly consolidated and easily eroded. A variety of wildlife makes its home along the trail. Along the path are stands of yellow poplar, black cherry, oaks, and other hardwoods. Hikers wishing to visit this little-known certified section of the trail should contact Marietta Ranger District, Wayne National Forest, US Forest Service, Route 1, Box 132, Marietta, OH, 45701 (614) 592-6644, and be prepared to study the US Forest Service maps for the North Country trail in the forest (available from the district office), and the county road maps of Noble, Monroe and Washington Counties. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail" has a segment about this section of the Wayne National Forest, available from the North Country Trail Store for $2.50. The North Country Trail rejoins the Buckeye Trail near Stockport, west of Marietta. The majority of the next 110 miles of trail is located off roads on the Buckeye Trail, in the national forest and on a variety of state, local, and private lands, and will treat visitors to some of Ohio's most outstanding scenery. Hikers will soon reach Burr Oak State Park. Seventeen miles of the 29 mile Burr Oak Backpack Trail form a scenic loop around Burr Oak Reservoir; one developed and three primitive camping areas are located along the trail, which is closed during Ohio's December deer season. For information in addition to that on the Buckeye Trail maps, contact Ohio Department of Natural Resources, Division of Parks and Recreation, Fountain Square, Building C, Columbus, OH 43224. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail" has a chapter from Burr Oak to Sinking Spring, and a second from Sinking Spring to Milford, each available for $5.50 from the North Country Trail Store. West of Burr Oak, the trail again passes through the Wayne National Forest and Lake Logan State Park before reaching the excellent certified trail in Hocking State Forest and Hocking State Park. About 12 miles of the Buckeye/NCT will pass through this forest and state park, which preserves for public enjoyment the outstanding scenery of this area, including multi-colored rock cliffs, gorges and caves. There are 16 miles of hiking trails and 15 miles of bridle trails in the complex and camping in the state park. Maps and information can be obtained from Hocking State Forest, Rt. 1, Box 216, Rockbridge OH 43149, or Hocking Hills State Park, 20160 SR 644, Logan OH 43148. Only a few miles southwest, the Buckeye/NCT passes through Tar Hollow State Park and State Forest for about 14 miles. There are 16 other miles of hiking trails and 14 miles of bridle trails in this area. For information, contact Tar Hollow State Park, 16396 Tar Hollow Road, Laurelville OH 43135 or Tar Hollow State Forest, Rt. 1, Londonderry OH 45647. About 15 miles further west, the trail enters Pike State Forest. Much of the off-road trail here is located on private land, so users should take extra care. About ten miles of trail are certified; some information may be had from Pike State Forest, 334 Lappell Rd., Latham, OH 45645 or Pike Lake State Park, 1847 Pike Lake Rd., Bainbridge OH, 45612. A few miles beyond Pike State Park, hikers reach the Fort Hill State Memorial. This is a most interesting stop along the trail. The Buckeye/NCT follows 3.6 miles of the Deer and Gorge Trails through this scenic and historic site. Fort Hill contains well-preserved Hopewell Indian hilltop earthworks. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The memorial site is also noted for its outstanding geological and botanical features. For additional information, contact the Ohio Historical Society, 1982 Velma Ave., Columbus OH 43211. If the Native American history excites you, the Buckeye Trail passes by Serpent Mound State Memorial about 5 miles to the south, site of the largest serpent effigy earthwork in the nation, also worth a stop. From here on to Cincinnati, there's only steppingstones of off-road trail, though the Buckeye Trail is marked the entire way, with the exception of one deviation the North Country Trail hiker may wish to make: The NCT uses the northwest 14.5 miles of the excellent 60-mile Shawnee Backpack Trail in Shawnee State Park and State Forest. This beautiful trail, located in some of Ohio's most rugged terrain, is marked with orange blazes on the main trail and white blazes on the side trails. Two backpack campsites are located along the NCT-certified segment, and there is a developed campground in the state park near the trail. Information can be obtained by contacting Shawnee State Forest, Rt., 5, Box 151C, Portsmouth OH 45662, or Shawnee State Park, Star Rt. 68, Portsmouth OH 45662. The Buckeye Trail does not match up to the northern Shawnee trailhead, and only joins the Shawnee Trail shortly before leaving the west side of the forest. Hikers interested in getting to the certified section of the Shawnee Trail should see Adams and Scotio County maps. The next major off-road segment of the Buckeye/NCT is a good many miles to the west- northwest, at East Fork State Park. The trail follows an 8.6 mile segment of the 37-mile East Fork Backcountry Trail for backpackers and horsemen. This trail is marked with green blazes depicting a backpacker and a horseshoe. A developed campground is located along the NCT segment. For a map and information, contact East Fork State Park, Box 119, Bethel OH. From East Fork, the trail heads on roads northwest about 15 miles to Milford, on the edge of the Cincinnati urban area. As the Buckeye/NCT departs the East Fork area, the landforms are changing and becoming less rugged. At the same time, the population is becoming more dense; the trail is about to invade the largest urban area it sees anywhere from New York to North Dakota. Strange, indeed, that much of the next hundred and fifty miles is located off-road. This area marks the first of three distinct character changes the trail will go through. Up to this point, the NCT has generally been an up and down affair, through foothills; the next several hundred miles are through relatively level farmlands. The trail flattens out for most of the rest of the way west, though there are hills here and there. In spite of considerable interest in Rails to Trails development nationwide and considerable study of possible rail-trail routes for the NCT, only two have been developed for a long distance, both of them in Ohio; the first is the Little Miami Scenic Park. The NCT utilizes about 55 miles of the 67-mile former railroad grade from Milford north to Yellow Springs, east of Dayton. The grade is being developed for full non-motorized multiple use, with a paved path for touring bicycles and wheelchairs, and a grassy strip for hikers. Several bridges will have to be rebuilt, and the northernmost segment, especially, will still be under development for some time to come. Most of the trail has now been blacktopped. In places, the trail is very suburban in nature, and receives heavy use from hikers, joggers, and cyclists. A hiker/biker service center and hostel has recently been developed in the Xenia area. The route parallels the Little Miami River, a National and State Scenic River. The Little Miami was one of the first rivers in the country to be designated a Wild and Scenic River, which protects it from development. It is shallow, fast-moving, an d extremely popular as a canoe stream. Camping sites are scarce along the trail, and canoe liveries have established campgrounds to alleviate this problem. For more information, contact Ohio DNR, Fountain Square, Building C, Columbus OH 43244. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail", by Byron and Margaret Hutchins, has a section on this trail, available from the North Country Trail Store for $3.00. The park comes to an end just north of the village of Yellow Springs. Plans are for the NCT to continue north to Springfield, then turn northwest to Troy, but no work has been done on this segment due to routing problems. However, there is an excellent alternate route, mostly off-road, on the Buckeye Trail. From Yellow Springs, the Buckeye Trail turns west, and follows river levees, parks and the like west through Wright-Patterson Air Force Base. Hikers with an interest in airplanes can easily blow a day in the Air Force Museum, which the trail passes. Continuing on, the trail follows parks, a bikeway, levees, and so forth through the center of Dayton before it turns north, and with a lot of off-road segments, eventually rejoins the planned NCT route at Troy. Though considered an alternate route, it is anticipated that this will be the primary route of the NCT for the long-distance user for many years to come. About half of the next 25 miles on the Buckeye/NCT is located off-road, as the Buckeye/NCT picks up its next major theme: the towpath of the old Miami and Erie Canal. The original Miami and Erie Canal was 248 miles long, and was built in the 1840s to provide transportation between Toledo and Cincinnati. The canal was 40 feet wide at the top and 26 feet wide at the bottom, with a minimum depth of four feet. The locks could accept canal boats up to 14 feet, 10 inches wide and up to 76 feet in length. The first boat to Toledo left Cincinnati on June 27, 1845, with the trip taking four days and five nights; the cost for passengers was 5 cents per mile. The canal boats were pulled by mules at two to two and a half miles per hour through the 108 stone and wood locks built to raise or lower the boats to the next level of the canal. The Buckeye/NCT starts out from Dayton by following short sections of the canal towpath, one of them passing the Lockington Locks Museum north of Piqua; then, at Lake Loramie State Park, a 42-mile certified segment begins. Historic remnants of the canal are visible along the trail, including several well-preserved locks and an aqueduct transporting the canal over a creek. The high point of the canal was at Loramie, 512 feet above the Ohio River and 395 feet above Lake Erie. Three large reservoirs were built to supply water for the canal, Lake Loramie being one of them. Another, Grand Lake, to the north, holds the distinction of being the largest artificial lake ever made without machinery; over 1700 men took eight years to cut down trees and move soil with wheelbarrows to build the dam. The largest excavation necessary in building the canal was south of Spencerville, known as Deep Cut, where a ridge of blue clay separated the watersheds of the St. Marys and Auglaize Rivers. A huge ditch was dug with picks and shovels and blasted, 6,600 feet long and up to 52 feet deep. With the advent of railroads, the canal declined in importance, and it ceased operating in 1906. However, many of the canal lands remained the property of the state of Ohio, leaving the door open to the future route of enjoyment by hikers and canal enthusiasts on the Buckeye/North Country Trails. Camping facilities are located in Lake Loramie, Grand Lake and St. Marys State Parks. For more information, contact Ohio Department of Natural Resources, Fountain Square, Building C, Columbus OH 43224. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail," by Byron and Margaret Hutchins, has a segment on the Miami and Erie Canal, available from the North Country Trail Store for $2.50. The canal towpath comes to an end at Delphos, with another canal museum and restored canal boat, the "Marguerite", which was built about 1850, and is the last surviving original canal boat. North of Delphos, the canal has been filled in, the Buckeye/NCT returns to roads, more or less paralleling the Auglaize River for about 35 miles to Defiance, where the next certified bit of the NCT in Ohio begins. Seven miles of the Miami and Erie Canal have been preserved along the Maumee River. The Buckeye/NCT follows the towpath of this canal northeast to the village of Florida, all in the park. Camping facilities are located in the park. For information, contact Independence Dam State Park, Rt. 4, Defiance OH 43512. At Florida, the North Country Trail says goodbye to the Buckeye Trail, its more or less constant companion for 600 miles. The trail continues to follow the Maumee River northeast. At one time, the route into Michigan was to be on a railroad grade running north from Napolean, but the opportunity has been lost; this was one of those areas that stumped planners for years, until an opportunity unforseen in the Comprehensive Plan arose. Near Liberty Center, northeast of Napoleon, the North Country Trail joins the southern leg of the Cannonball Trail, the other major rail-trail the NCNST follows in Ohio. The Cannonball is nearly unique among rail-trails, in that it is being developed and operated not by a government entity, but by a private organization. The Northwestern Ohio Rails to Trails Association is planning about 67 miles of trail, about 47 of while will eventually be certified as NCNST, and about 7 already are. It's not as highly developed as the Little Miami, but has decked bridges, and a dirt/cinder surface; other amenities are planned as funds become available. The NCNST follows the southern leg of the Cannonball Trail northeastward to Whitehouse, on the fringes of Toledo, then departs the trail and travels north for several miles through Oak Openings Metropark. Partway through Oak Openings, the NCNST rejoins the Cannonball, now on its northern leg, and follows it westward about 40 miles to the village of West Unity. A fair amount of work remains to be done on the northern leg of the trail, but it can be followed as it exists. Certification of the entire segment of the Cannonball to be used by the NCNST is planned by 2000. For more information on the Cannonball Trail, contact NW Ohio Rails to Trails Association, PO Box 234, Delta, OH 43515 (800) 951-4788. Back to the top Michigan: The NCT in the Water Wonderland The Lower Peninsula Michigan has the largest percentage of the NCT of any of the seven states, and the most certified miles. Still, there are many miles to go; only about 50 percent of the NCT in Michigan is certified, most of it in the northern two thirds of the state. Another 15 to 20 percent can be considered usable. The trail is under development in many areas, and Michigan NCTA officials have hopes of having usable trail continuous from the Grand Rapids area to the Wisconsin line in the not too distant future. Michigan is the only one of the NCNST states that has a full set of trail maps covering the state from border to border. The trail in Michigan follows a wide variety of trails, some obscure, with obscure trailheads, varying widely in types and degree of marking, and the mapsets are invaluable. Modeled after the older series maps of the Finger Lakes Trail, the detailed sketch maps are unbound, and contain a brief trail description of each segment, detailed enough for the hiker unfamiliar with the area to successfully and enjoyably follow the trail. The maps are available in seven sets: (A) State Line to Calhoun County; (B) Kalamazoo County to Kent County; (C) Newaygo County to Wexford County, (D) Grand Traverse County to Antrim County; (E) Charlevoix County to Mackinaw City; (F) St. Ignace to Marquette, and (G) Marquette to Ironwood. Each of the sets is $4.00, and is available from the North Country Trail Store. Several, but not all, of the certified segments are described in "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail -- the NCT in Lower Michigan," available for $8.00 from the North Country Trail Store. The trail in the state south of the Manistee National Forest is mostly through rolling farmlands, and will be a rural, rather than a wilderness trail. Only occasional patches of public land are available for trail development, so eventually much of the trail will have to cross private land. The NCT in Michigan is planned to cross the state line in southeast Hillsdale County, near the village of Waldron, and follow roads northward to Lost Nations State Game Area, where new trail, still awaiting certification, was constructed in 1997-98. Further west, at Osseo, the trail follows the first certified trail in Michigan, the Baw Beese Trail, on abandoned railroad grade about 5 miles northwest to Waterworks Park, on the southeast corner of the city of Hillsdale. The Baw Beese/North Country Trails will then follow a "river walk" under development through the city. After passing through the city, trail users reach the three-mile M-99 bikeway between Hillsdale and Jonesville. The paved bikeway parallels M-99. Only a general route of the trail exists northwest from Jonesville; through hikers will have to consult Hillsdale and Calhoun County maps to get 40 miles to downtown Battle Creek, where the hiker can follow the Battle Creek Linear Parkway and its westward extension west for about 8 miles. The path picks up downtown and goes west for about two miles, jogs south across the Kalamazoo River, and heads westward, emerging to follows a sidewalk paralleling M-96 to the Ft. Custer National Cemetery. Information is available from Battle Creek Public Works Department, Battle Creek, MI 49014. From Ft. Custer, the user will have to follow M-96 west to Augusta, but new trail, constructed north from Augusta, was certified in 1998, and the next thirty miles north are a hotbed of trail development where things are in flux; the Chief Noonday Chapter of the NCTA hopes to have trail developed through Barry County, including the Barry State Game Area and Yankee Springs State Park, in the next few years, so the best information will be a current copy of the Michigan "B" mapset. The game area has a 9 mile horse trail, of which about four miles are usable to the through hiker; in Yankee Springs, hikers can use the ivory-blazed Deep Lake and orange-blazed Chief Noonday Trails. Contact Department of Natural Resources, Yankee Springs Field Office, 2104 Gun Lake Rd., RR#3, Middleville, MI 48933 for information. North of Barry County, it's still a roadwalk in Kent County to Lowell, where several miles of trail were recently certified in Lowell State Game Area, and new trail development is under way in a county park to the north. The National Park Service has developed a plan for trail devleopment in Kent County, but progress has been slow. Again, the best current information is Mapset "B" of the Michgan map series. North of there, users will have to follow roads to get to the next piece of usable trail, at Rogue River State Game Area in northern Kent County. The trailhead for 4.5 miles of NCT is located on Division Avenue. No camping or horses are permitted. The trail emerges from the Rogue River State Game Area on the Newaygo County line; from here, hikers will have to follow Newaygo County roads to Croton Dam, and the 115 miles of trail in the Manistee National Forest. Croton Dam represents the second of the three major changes in character of the North Country National Scenic Trail -- from farmland to northern forest. Although the land for the last hundred miles has been steadily more wooded, at Croton Dam, public ownership starts to prevail over largely private ownership. The NCNST is more or less continually marked from the dam over 600 miles north to the vicinity of Marquette, MI, in the upper peninsula. During the late 1800s and early 1900's, the virgin forest that would become the Manistee National Forest, made up of oaks and pines, were cut for lumber. The land was burned and farming began, but the sandy soil provided little reward. Much of the land lay idle and wind-blown sand dunes until the Manistee National Forest, of 481,000 acres, was established in 1938. This troubled land has now been covered with a young forest, and is a haven for campers, swimmers, hunters, fishermen, snowmobilers, canoeists, and hikers. The trail varies from slightly rolling on the south end, to steep hillsides and long vistas toward the north end. Users should contact Forest Supervisor, Manistee National Forest, 421 S. Mitchell St., Cadillac, MI 49601 for current information. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail" also has a segment about the Manistee National Forest. The Michigan "C" Mapset also covers this area, in somewhat more detail than the forest service maps. It is also available, for $4.00 from the North Country Trail Store. Bear are present, but cannot be called common, and bear precautions are not usually taken by hikers. It's generally level or slightly rolling walking. Trailside camping is permitted in the forest, but must be at a site at least 200 feet off the trail and 200 feet from a lake or waterway. There are also several developed campsites that hikers may wish to use. Due to intermingled ownership patterns on parts of the forest, trail users are asked to respect private property; some of which is posted. In other cases, the trail crosses private property on a narrow easement. There has been considerable controversy about the National Forest opening some segments of the NCNST to mountain bikes, and considerable treadway damage has been reported on these segments. The segment from Croton Dam to M-37 is fairly new, and partly located on roads, but the 28 miles north from that point is a much-loved section that largely predates the North Country Trail -- the Manistee Trail. Hikers, especially through hikers, are invited to stop for a night at the NCTA Headquarters and Hostel at the corner of Felch and Five Mile Roads, about 7 miles northwest of White Cloud and about 1 1/2 miles east of the trail. Located in the 100 year old Birch Grove School, hot showers and late information on the trail are available. The building is not manned daily; users should contact (616) 689-1912 or write to NCTA to make advance arrangements. The old Manistee Trail ended at Nichols Lake Forest Campground, but new trail extends northward from there, sometimes in quite scenic countryside, past several forest campgrounds and trailheads. The northernmost segment in the forest, though partly open to mountain bikes, is one of the best in the forest, running through the Manistee River valley from High Bridge to a trailhead on Beers Road, west of Hodenpyl Dam. The Forest Service recently opened a mountain- bike-banned segment of trail on the east side of the river that could be used as a loop trail or alternative. Work has been under way for some time on a connection through the Pere Marquette State Forest to reach the next segment of trail, the south branch of the Michigan Shore-to-Shore Riding- Hiking Trail (STS). The trail follows the north side of the Manistee River valley eastward, occasionally following roads, not always near the river. The best available route description is in "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail - NCT in Lower Michigan". The STS stretches 213 miles from Empire on Lake Michigan to Tawas City on Lake Huron. Its route across the northern lower peninsula traverses some of the most scenic areas in the state. The NCT uses about 35 miles of the trail, developed mostly for horse use; the trail has a reputation of being hard going for hikers in spots due to heavy horse use on sandy soils. Five forest campgrounds and two other camping areas are located along the segment of the STS utilized by the NCT. Trail along this stretch includes segments in the Muncie Lakes Pathway and the trail system of the Sand Lakes Quiet Area, a 2,800 acre tract set aside in 1973 where motorized vehicle use is prohibited. Camping is permitted in state forests along the trail if the camp is more than 100 feet from the trail. The STS is marked with blue markers showing a footprint and a horseshoe, and routed wooden signs. At road crossings, turns and corners, there are square wooden posts with arrows and the marker. The Michigan "D" Mapset shows the route; it's available from the North Country Trail Store for $4.00. The best available route description is in "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail - NCT in Lower Michigan". East of Kalkaska, the STS follows roads, though marked. Near the corner of Sunset Road and CR 612, a segment of the NCT splits off and heads north about 20 miles to the Jordan River Pathway. The NCT picks up the Jordan River Pathway at Landslide Scenic View, about two miles northwest of Alba, and follows about 10 miles of this loop pathway, a National Recreation Trail. The popular trail is marked with blue paint blazes and markers, but has a reputation for not getting a high degree of maintenance. Points of scenic, biological and historical interest are located along the trail. A hike-in campground is located along the segment utilized by the NCT. In 1991, a connection was completed between the Jordan River Pathway and the next segment to the north, Warner Creek Pathway, one mile north of the Jordan River Pathway's northernmost point. The NCT uses the southeast 1.6 miles of the Warner Creek Pathway, marked with blue paint blazes and triangular markers. Again, the Michigan "D" Mapset shows the route; it's available from the North Country Trail Store for $4.00. The best available route description is in "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail - NCT in Lower Michigan". Several segments of certified trail mixed with occasional road walking will be encountered as the hiker continues northward through Antrim and Charlevoix counties, passing through Petoskey, now using the Michigan "E" mapset as a guide. North of there in Emmet County, the trail heads northwest toward Wycamp Lake State Forest Camp Ground. From there, the trail is complete but not yet certified through Wilderness State Park to Mackinac City. One of the NCTA's good opportunities for a loop hike is under way in this area. The loop can be closed with a 22-mile abandoned railroad grade that mostly parallels US-31 from Mackinac City to Alanson. This grade was recently acquired by the DNR and has been developed as a snowmobile and bicycle trail. In Wilderness State Park the trail follows the Lake Michigan shore north about 2 miles, then turns inland to Sturgeon Bay Road (closed to vehicles), then east, and north on Swamp Line Road to the park headquarters. From there, it goes east on Red Pine, Nebo, East Ridge, East Boundary and Spruce Ridge Trails to the park boundary. The usable NCT route is about 9 miles through this 7,500 acre park, which has two campgrounds and five rental cabins. Contact Wilderness State Park, Box 380, Carp Lake, MI 49718 for more information. The NCTA has recently completed a 7-mile section connecting Wilderness State Park with Mackinac City. It picks up on the Spruce Ridge Trail and winds through dense forests until reaching the railroad grade, which it follows to town. The NCT and the railroad grade in this area is home to the Mackinac Mush, a dog sled race held every year in January, the largest annual event held on the North Country Trail. Mackinac City is the gateway to Michigan's upper peninsula, one of the wildest places on the NCNST. Getting to the upper peninsula, however, can be a bit of a problem for the long-distance hiker. Back to the top The Upper Peninsula The entire trail is called the North Country Trail, but Michigan's upper peninsula really feels like the north country; crossing the 5-mile Mackinac Bridge seems to take you much farther north. The upper peninsula is wild country, largely forested , although cut over a century ago. The Mackinac Bridge, known as "Big Mac", is only usable one day a year, the morning of Labor Day, when an annual bridge walk is held. At that time, the bridge can be walked southbound in a mob of 50,000 to 70,000 people. At other times, hikers must find other ways across the Straits of Mackinac. The Mackinac Bridge Authority operates a shuttle bus; to go north from Jamet Street, the last exit on I-75 before the bridge, call (906) 643-7600 to arrange pickup; southbound, the bus leaves from the Bridge Authority offices at the north end of the bridge. An alternative to taking the bus is to take a ferry to Mackinac Island, and then to St. Ignace. Although not directly on the route of the NCT, this island park provides an interesting side trip. Reached by ferry from Mackinac City or St. Ignace, b icycles, your own feet, or horses are the only modes of transportation on the island; motor vehicles are not allowed. Mackinac Island was designated as our second national park in 1875, a status it retained until 1895 when the park was turned over to the state. No camping facilities are available on the island, but many resort hotels and tourist rooms are located in the village. Bring money. Just north of Big Mac, a long section of completed NCT begins. Though this is the shortest of the "big three", it has far and away the highest percentage of certified trail, and is the one of the trail's longest consistently wild sections. Supplies are only available at rare locations over the next 210 miles. As this long segment falls in the responsibility of several agencies, information must be sought in several locations. At this writing, trailhead for the first segment in the Hiawatha National Forest, St. Ignace Ranger District, is located on Castle Rock Road (FR3104), about four miles north of St. Ignace, but the user can follow an uncertifiable abandoned railroad grade turned snowmobile trail north from the outskirts of St. Ignace to the intersection with the trail. The NCT in the St. Ignace Ranger District winds north for 36.5 miles, all on forest land. The trail has been criticized in the past for not being well marked or cleared, but recent Forest Service work has markedly improved the situation, including the development of several boardwalks elevated over wetlands. One developed and one primitive campground are located along the trail in this district, but camping is allowed alongside the trail. For information, contact Hiawatha National Forest, St. Ignace Ranger District, 1498 W. US-2, St. Ignace, MI 49781, (906) 643-7900; or Hiawatha National Forest, Sault Ste Marie Ranger District, 4000 I-75 Business Spur, Sault Ste. Marie, MI, 49873 (906) 635- 5311. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail - the NCT in Upper Michigan" has a segment on the Hiawatha, available from the NCTA Trail Store for $9.50. The segment is also covered in the Michigan "F" Mapsets, available from the Trail store for $4.00. Bordered by Lake Superior to the north and by Lake Michigan and Lake Huron to the south, almost half of the Hiawatha's 880,797 acres are wetlands, with 413 inland lakes and over 775 miles of streams. Along the path, stands of northern white cedar, aspen, pine and northern hardwoods are found. The trail passes near many sites of historical interest; archaeological remains of ancient Indian settlements are sometimes found along the shores of lakes and rivers. Subtle traces of old logging camps and pioneer homesteads are often located in grassy openings in the forest or along abandoned roads or railroad grades. As the trail crosses the county line into Chippewa County, it enters the Sault Ste. Marie Ranger District. This has 42 miles of certified trails north to Lake Superior. There are two developed campgrounds and several bivouac areas. Trailside camping is permitted. For more information, contact Hiawatha National Forest, Sault Ste. Marie Ranger District, at the above address. Emerging from the Hiawatha National Forest on Tahquamenon Bay, the trail follows new trail through state land for about 5 miles until reaching Rivermouth Campground in Tahquamenon State Park. This trail segment in Tahquamenon more or less parallels the Tahquamenon River for 17 miles through the park. Camping is only permitted in the two developed campgrounds unless prior arrangements have been made. The 21,000 acre park contains outstanding scenery, including the second largest waterfall in the east. Contact Manager, Tahquamenon Falls State Park, Paradise, MI 49768, or DNR. From the boundary of Tahquamenon Falls State Park, the trail goes west in Lake Superior State Forest, then north, then west along the shore of Lake Superior 44 miles to Grand Marais through Lake Superior Forest and Muskallonge Lake State Park. There are six state forest campgrounds and the state park campground along the route, and trailside camping is permitted. The trail is marked with the NCT marker and blue paint blazes; trail maintenance was reportedly poor for some time, but has recently undergone a major overhaul. Again, the best information on this segment is in "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail - the NCT in Upper Michigan". The segment is also covered in the Michigan "F" Mapsets, available from the Trail store for $4.00. The 26 miles of NCT along the shore of Lake Superior from the mouth of the Big Two-Hearted River to Grand Marais would be considered pretty scenic trail anywhere, but they rather pale when compared to the next segment, the 43 miles of North Country Trail in the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, the only major segment of National Park Service land on the entire NCT. The NCT here, formerly knowan as the "Lakeshore Trail" is marked with the NCT marker or a variant, and routed wooden signs at all trail heads and intersections. Hiker's fingers will grow weary depressing the shutter buttons of their cameras as they try to capture the outstanding scenery of the Lake Superior shoreline - the massive Grand Sable Dunes, beautiful sandy beaches, and the magnificent Pictured Rocks. Historic sites such as the log slide and Au Sable Point Lighthouse will intrigue hikers. Two developed and 12 backcountry campsites are located along the trail. A free permit is required to camp overnight in the back country. Permits can be obtained at the park headquarters or at the visitor centers at either end of the trail, in Grand Marais and Munising. This is probably the most heavily-used regular segment of the NCT in Michigan. End-to-end walking of the National Lakeshore is sufficient that the Park Service, in cooperation with Alger County, runs a shuttle bus in summer months between the two vis itor centers to return hikers to the trail head. For information on this, plus brochures on the park, the Lakeshore Trail, and backcountry camping, contact Superintendent, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, PO Box 40, Munising MI 49862. The North Country Trail Store also stocks the invaluable "Guide to the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore", by Olive Anderson, available for $6.95. Again, "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail - the NCT in Upper Michigan" and the Michigan "F" Mapsets provide valuable information. This stellar segment of the NCT ends with a segment in the Hiawatha National Forest west of Munising. The marked trail follows roads for about four miles through the city, then goes off-road for about 15 miles at a trailhead off M-94. The trail was certified to the junction of Rock River Road and FR2276 in 1989. Five "dispersed campsites" have been recognized, but other campsites and bivouac areas are yet to be developed. Trailside camping is permitted on all but the few sections of private land the trail crosses. A separate US Forest Service map is available for this segment. For further information, contact Hiawatha National Forest, Munising Ranger District, 400 Munising St., Munising MI 49862. Trail is under intensive development from Rock River Road far to the west at Covington, where the Ottawa National Forest picks up. From Rock River Road to Marquette, the "F" Mapsets are the guide of choice; from there to Covington, the "G" mapsets. A connection, involving low-use forest roads and new trail, connects to Laughing Whitefish Falls to the west, but the North Country Trail Hikers Club of Marquette, Michigan, an NCTA Chapter, is still working on the segment and it isn't all the way ready for certification yet. Good county maps are highly recommended in this area, as it will sometimes involve following roundabout forest roads to get from segment to segment. From Rock River Road, it's about 30 miles, sometimes on road, sometimes off, partly through the highly scenic Laughing Whitefish Falls area, until reaching the village of Harvey on the outskirts of Marquette. From Harvey, a six-mile usable bike path follows the shore through Marquette to Presque Isle City Park, north of town. The general route of the NCT extends through north-central Marquette County. For several years, the NCTA, Sierra Club and the North Country Trail Hikers Club have been working on connecting the Hiawatha and Ottawa National Forests on largely private lands. Segments of the trail have been completed in and near Craig Lake State Park and the McCormick Wilderness Area of Ottawa National Forest, and elsewhere, but all the trail yet completed is not yet usable, as some completed segments are one-ended; a usable segment of 30 miles or so in the vicinity of the McCormick Tract and Craig Lake State Park is completed and usable, although out of the way for the through-hiker. If you'd like to help out, an annual work session is held in August. Contact North Country Trail Hikers Club, 12 Middle Island Point, Marquette, MI 49855 for more information. It's possible for the long-distance hiker to follow roads through western Marquette and Baraga Counties to get from Presque Isle City Park to the next usable segment, near Craig Lake State Park, and on to the Ottawa National Forest, but if a user wants to stay close to the planned route of the trail by using forest roads, this is one area where topographic maps are not a bad idea. Virtually all land in this area, with the exception of Craig Lake State Park and the McCormick tract are privately held. For information on the trail in Marquette and Baraga Counties, contact the North Country Trail Hikers Club at their Marquette address, given above; for Craig Lake State Park, contact DNR; on the McCormick tract, contact Forest Supervisor, Ottawa National Forest, East US2, Ironwood, MI 49938. The segment is covered in the Michigan "F" Mapsets available for $5.00 from the North Country Trail Store. At the western end of this segment, the Tibbets Falls segment was completed in 1988, and connects with the NCT in the Ottawa National Forest. The trailhead, in central Baraga County, is at the dead-end of Autio Road at Nestor Creek, 2 1/2 miles west of US 41. This 5.8 mile segment is located entirely on private land and no camping is permitted. However, it's expected that the segment south of the Sturgeon River will have to be abandoned soon due to clear-cutting; local activists are working on a route to the north of the river, which will include the scenic Sturgeon River Gorge. The Tibbets Falls segment comes to an end at the trailhead for the NCT in the Ottawa National Forest, in western Baraga County. Pine, hemlock, sugar maple and yellow birch once characterized western Michigan's upper peninsula forests. Logging in the late 1800s and early 1900s, followed by wildfires, drastically changed the mixture of forest trees. Aspen, paper birch, and balsam fir grew back in cut-over areas. About 106 miles of North Country Trail wanders through landscapes rich in history, wild life, and natural beauty. The trail in the Ottawa National forest is one of the standout jewels of wilderness along the NCT. In the easternmost reaches, it passes near the Sturgeon River Gorge wilderness; outlooks on the eastern rim of the gorge offer stunning panoramas, especially during fall color season. Volcanic rock outcrops form the 20 foot high Sturgeon Falls. Most of the trail in the eastern half of the Ottawa National Forest is wild and primitive. Trailside camping is permitted, and the trail passes one developed campground. Completed portions are blazed in blue. For information on this and other Ottawa National Forest segments, contact the Ottawa National Forest, 2100 East Cloverland Drive, Ironwood MI 49938. (906) 932-1330 or, for Michigan residents only, (800) 562-1201. "Certified Segments of the North Country Trail," by Byron and Margaret Hutchins, also has a segment on the Ottawa National Forest including Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, available from the North Country Trail Store for $4.00. The western half of the Ottawa, from US45 on west, is among the most scenic and rugged sections of the NCT in Michigan. The trail crosses the Ontanagon River below the Victoria Dam; when the dam isn't releasing, it's a rock-hop, but at times of high water, it's impassible, and hikers must detour on US45 and local roads through Rockland. New trail was recently completed through Old Victoria Historic Village, a couple miles west of the dam, and on-road segments between there and Norwich have recently been replaced with new trail.. At Norwitch, hikers may examine remains of the old Norwich Mine in evidence along the trail; west of Norwich, the trail picks up again on the 28 mile Trap Falls segment, which is about as rugged as the NCT gets in Michigan. Get local information before starting out on this segment, especially in times of high water; a bridge over a branch of the Ontonagon River recently collapsed under snow load, and it may be some years before it will be replaced; the stream is dangerous to wade in high water. This segment comes to an end at the boundary of the Porcupine Mountains State Park. There are a couple of places that are hard going, especially on the Trap Falls segment, reputedly the ruggedest segment of the whole NCT. The Porcupine Mountains have many miles of some of the finest trails in the midwest. The route the NCT takes is regarded by some as the park's wildest part, but not its most scenic. A little map work will give hikers more scenic routes, including one along the Lake Superior shoreline, if they wish to go a longer distance. This 58,000 acre park is one of the few remaining large wilderness areas in the midwest. Towering stands of virgin timber, four secluded lakes, and miles of wild rivers and stre ams await hikers who venture there. Bear sightings are not uncommon. The park contains 85 miles of backpacking trails which lead hikers to spectacular overlooks and vistas, Backpackers must register at the park office before entering the interior of the park. Nine rustic cabins, which must be reserved in advance, and three Adirondack shelters are available on a first-come, first-serve basis, located along the trails. Trailside camping is permitted but not within a quarter mile of any cabin or shelter. In addition, there are modern, semi-modern and rustic developed campgrounds within the park. A fee is charged for all camping, including trailside. For information on the park and its trail system, contact Park Supervisor, Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Star Route Box 314, Ontonagon, MI 49953. The westernmost segment of the NCT in the Ottawa National Forest leads west from a trailhead on County Road 519, about three miles south of Presque Isle Campground in the Porcupine Mountains. It goes about six miles to Black River Harbor Campground, then south up the canyon of the Black River; hikers will enjoy the outstanding scenery, including the series of waterfalls on the Black River. Again, contact Ottawa National Forest for information. At the trailhead for the North Country Trail, about four miles up the Black River on County Road 219, the off-road segment of the NCT in Michigan comes to an end, although the Ottawa National Forest officials intend to extend the trail several miles further south along the scenic Black River at some point in the future. Hikers will have to use Goegebic County maps to get to Ironwood and the US2 bridge, gate to Wisconsin and the western third of the NCT. Back to the top Wisconsin: Hiking across the dairy state Wisconsin has the smallest distance of any of the seven states the North Country Trail crosses, and the second smallest amount of trail developed to date. It's pretty good trail, including the trail that gave its name to the whole concept. Trail activity in Wisconsin has recently taken a major upturn; at this writing, the NCT activists in the state are battling it out with Pennsylvania for the second spot in percentage of trail completed, and both are racing to be the first to have certified trail clear across the state. The trail crosses from Michigan on the US-2 bridge from Ironwood into Hurley, a town reknowned in lumbering days for its wild reputation on Saturday nights; indeed, some of the cause for the reputation still remains. Hikers needing to cross the gap to Copper Falls State Park will need to consult road maps of Iron and Ashland Counties. A few miles west of Hurley, the Uller Trail, a 7-mile trail on Iron County Forest lands was recently certified. The next usable trail in Wisconsin is Copper Falls State Park, about 20 miles west of Hurley. The NCT meanders through this park for 7.8 miles, taking the hiker through peaceful forests to a series of spectacular waterfalls: Copper Falls, Brownstone Falls, and Tyler's Fork Cascades. The park contains a wide variety of recreational facilities, including two developed campgrounds, a group campground, and two backpack campsites in the north end of the park on a side trail off of the NCT. Advance reservations are recommended for the backpack campsites. The trail through the park is marked with routed wooden signs and diamond shaped blue metal markers. For information on the park and its segment of the NCT, contact the Park Superintendent, Copper Falls State Park, Mellen, WI 54546. The east trailhead for the NCT in the Chequamegon National Forest is not far away, and a trail project, sponsored by the village of Mellin, Wisconsin, was recently built and certified to connect the two. The 60-mile trail in the Chequamegon National Forest was designed for backpackers, and was built and named the North Country Trail years before the concept of the seven-state trail arose. The trail begins on Forest Road 390 about two miles west of Mellen. The trail is open to hiking and backpacking and horseback riding in the summer, and cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the winter. Four developed campgrounds with water, tables, fireplaces, etc., are located along or very near the trail. Three Adirondack shelters, a rarity along the NCT, are located along the trail. Trailside camping is permitted, but campsites must be kept 50 feet away from the trail or any water. The trail heads northwest through the forest. The eastern half of the trail is the most rugged; this portion of the trail travels through the Penokee Hills, an area of rock outcroppings and scenic overlooks. The western half of the trail is gentle in nature, being a rolling combination of upland and swamps. The trail passes by several small, beautiful lakes and crosses a number of rivers and streams, the Brunsweiler and Marengo being the largest. The trail crosses several forest development roads, each providing an access point to the trail. The trail comes to an end at the National Forest border, on County Highway "A" near Lake Ruth, about five miles south of Iron River. For more information, contact Forest Supervisor, Chequamegon National Forest, 147 N. Fifth Ave., Park Falls, WI 54552. "Certified Segments of the North Country Trail," has a segment on the Chequamegon National Forest, available from the North Country Trail Store for $3.50. In 1995, the National Park Service began a project to identify and plan a trail route from the Chequamegon on to Minnesota, a route that had long been studded with possibilities but little completed trail. Even before the completion of the plan, it turned western Wisconsin into a hotbed of trail development. Recent construction, totalling about 10 miles of trail, has been concentrated east of Solon Springs, and developers are concentrating on a connection with the Chequemagon over County Forest Lands. The National Park Service office in Madison, Wisconsin, is probably the best source for information on this segment, as NPS NCNST Manager Bill Menke has been using this segment for a test of a model of trail development. Originally, the general route of the NCNST was to have followed the St. Croix Scenic Waterway out of the state, but private land crossing and other problems there made it a daunting task. The new route, on which there has been some work already, only uses a short segment of the St. Croix before turning northwest along the Moose River, heading for Minnesota's Jay Cooke State Park. One of the sights along this segment will be some existing trail in Pattison Falls State Park, south of Superior, the largest waterfall in Wisconsin. However, for probably some time to come, the long-distance hiker will have to consult Bayfield and Douglas County road maps to find a route west from the Chequamegon to the border crossing south and east from Jay Cooke State Park. Back to the top Minnesota: Through the 10,000 lakes country Minnesota may not have the longest mileage of trail of the NCNST states, but it will have some of the finest and most memorable, especially if and when the Arrowhead reroute takes place. The 1982 Comprehensive Plan for the North Country National Scenic Trail called for the trail to proceed west out of Jay Cooke State Park through the Savanna and Hill River State Forests, to the Chippewa National Forest. Nothing was ever done about this plan, due to extensive private landownership along the way, and the fact that much of the land that would have to be crossed is marshy -- it was once estimated that the route could require as many as 40 miles of bog bridges, an expensive and nearly impossible task. By the late '80s, Minnesota interests in the NCTA could see that the Savanna Portage/Floodwood route was a non-starter, and started calling for the diversion of the NCNST several hundred miles out of the way onto the "Arrowhead" route (the north shore region is commonly called Minnesota's "Arrowhead"). A route through the Arrowhead Region using the Superior Hiking Trail, the Grand Portage, Border Route Trail, Kekekabic Trail, and what was then the Mesabi Range Trail was proposed. This relocation could add 400 miles to the trail route, but would take the route of the North Country Trail into territory that is superlative "North Country". Ironically, before the North Country Trail was authorized, an early draft of proposed NCT routes across eastern Minnesota called for the route to proceed northeastward to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW), then eastward to the Lake Superior shoreline, then southwestward to the Duluth area and Jay Cooke State Park. This plan was rejected in 1976, because there was little existing trail along the way. But, things changed after 1982. First, the Kekekabic Trail, a former trail in the BWCAW, had been dropped from the Superior National Forest management plan until the maintenance of the trail was taken over by theKekekabic Trail Club, formed in 1989. Then, the Minnesota Rovers, an outing group affiliated with the University of Minnesota, built the Border Route trail east from the Kekekabic Trail through the BWCAW to Grand Portage, on roughly the alignment proposed in 1976 for the NCNST. Finally, at about the same time, the Superior Hiking Trail Association was formed, to develop a quality hiking trail down Minnesota's "north shore" of Lake Superior. Development went forward rapidly, and the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT) quickly became a going concern. So, independent of the NCT Comprehensive Plan, about two-thirds of the 1976 proposed route became a reality, a route perceived in many ways to be better than the Savanna Portage/Floodwood route selected for the NCNST. The Arrowhead is a huge deviation from the 1982 Comprehensive Plan -- the largest relocation ever considered for a national scenic trail. While smaller deviations from the plan -- both on the NCNST and elsewhere -- have routinely been approved by the Park Service, this one was just too big to swallow without further guidance, and NPS officials wanted to be sure that they were on firm ground prior to proceeding. In 1997, it was decided that an amendment to the Comprehensive Plan for the North Country Trail would have to be written and approved. This plan is in currently in preparation by the Madison office of the National Park Service. The Arrowhead Route would begin at Jay Cooke State Park, where the NPS Northwest Wisconsin Plan ends. The park is the first of several great state parks in Minnesota the NCNST passes through, and is one of the older ones, established in 1915. The water-eroded gorge, steep valleys and massive rock formations are seen thoughout the park. The rock formations along the St. Louis River are especially unique. Located on the old portage between the St. Louis and Mississippi River Basin, the Grand Portage Trail in the park has been used for over 300 years. For information, contact Jay Cooke State Park, Carleton MN 55718. Getting to Duluth may involve a rail trail that runs northeast from Jay Cooke State Park - the Willard Munger Trail. As it is open to snowmobiles, it probably won't be the ultimate route of the NCNST; it's more likely the trail might follow the Western Waterfront Trail to Jay Cooke State Park, but that trail is currently only open to New Duluth -- this is one of those things that NPS planning will have to answer. At one time, the fly in the Arrowhead Route ointment was seen as getting through or around Duluth. But, things changed when it was realized how highly trail-oriented the city is -- it appears there may be several opportunities to pass through the city. Though not all the trail may be instantly certifiable, there will be off-road trail clear through the city, except for a two-mile gap, and that sidewalked. This came about as a combination of a number of things: first, the development of the "Lakewalk", a popular urban trail right on the Lake Superior shoreline, leading to the heart of downtown, and set to be extended northeastward; a move by the Duluth City Council to extend a rail trail southwest to the trailhead for the Willard Munger Trail and Western Waterfront Trail. For information on the Munger Trail and the many state parks, contact Minnesota Department of Natural Resources, Information Center, Box 40, 500 Lafayette Center, St. Paul MN 55146 (612) 296-6699. Duluth is perhaps best known as a port, shipping iron ore from Minnesota and wheat from the great plains all over the world. But, it's also a north country town, although a rather cosmopolitan one, and oriented toward outdoor recreation. There is a wide array of sightseeing opportunities near the trail, including the William A. Irvin, a museum ship, the Marine Museum at Canal Park, a scenic railroad, Glensheen Mansion tours, Duluth Omnimax Theater, and much besides. For information, Duluth Convention and Visitor's Bureau, 800-438-5884 can fill in most needs. From the north of Duluth, the NCNST potentially follows what will be one of the real jewels of the trail: the Superior Hiking Trail (SHT). The SHT is indeed well-named; in every respect, it's a superior trail. Iit's become a model of how things should be done in hiking trail development, and how a trail should be managed. With the first trail cleared in 1987, ten years later off-road trail extended over 200 of the projected 240 miles through the rugged, beautiful hills overlooking Lake Superior on Minnesota's scenic "North Shore." The trail is generally a few miles inland from the Superior shore, but occasionally comes out to it. It includes long, isolated river walks, many waterfalls as the short, steep streams descend quickly from the highlands, distant views of the big lake, historic lighthouses, rugged gorges, and stands of dense timber, passing through or near seven very good state parks along the way. Over 40 bridges span the streams. Some spots are steep, requiring a little scrambling in order to follow the trail. The SHT goes through several state parks, and is noted for the number of waterfalls on the short, steep rivers leading down to Lake Superior. Grand Marais and Two Harbors are the only two towns of any real size along the route. The SHT is a volunteer project, coordinated by the Superior Hiking Trail Association (SHTA), with a small paid staff in a basement office in Two Harbors, MN. SHTA is continuing to push ahead with the development of the trail, which now is reaching toward Duluth from the Two Harbors area; a couple of roadwalk gaps remain along the trail to the north of Two Harbors, but work is proceeding to fill those in. One of the items that has allowed the SHT to develop a high degree of public awareness is its location; US61 parallels the trail, usually a few miles away, for virtually its whole distance, with many developed trailheads and trailhead parking areas. This has caused a degree of use that has allowed the development of a service nearly unique along the trail: a regular private shuttle service. The Superior Shuttle is a van that makes the round trip from Castle Danger, north of Two Harbors, to Grand Marais and back on a strict schedule every Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday from late May through late October. For more information, contact (218) 834-5511. Also, a lodge-to-lodge hiking program has been developed, although it's not possible to lodge-to-lodge the whole trail, at least yet. For more information, contact Boundary Country Trekking at (218) 388-9972. Another standout item about the SHT is the quality of its maps and guide, "Guide to the Superior Hiking Trail". It's available from the Superior Hiking Trail Association, PO Box 4, 731 7th Ave., Two Harbors, MN (218) 834-2700. The cost is $14.95. The SHTA also has a set of four pocket-sized folding maps of the trail, at the same scale of the maps in the Guide to the Superior Hiking Trail, printed on waterproof paper, and available at 50 cents each; these too come highly recommended. At Hoveland, northeast of Grand Marais, the SHT turns inland, and heads northward to a connection with the Border Route Trail. It was the original intent of the Superior Hiking Trail to connect with the Border Route and the Grand Portage Trail at Grand Portage, but permission problems forced the connection at this point, outside the Grand Portage reservation. The route taken is not a compromise, and has scenic value of its own. If the north country reaches its epitome in the lower 48 states, it's in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW) of northern Minnesota. Wild, rugged, dotted with lakes and craggy hills -- it just doesn't get any better than this. It's a land of rugged, forested hills, sweeping vistas of blue, green, autumn red and gold, and winter white, rocky headlands and crashing waves, cozy valleys and surging waterfalls. The Appalachian Trail may have its hundred-mile wilderness, but this will be the North Country Trail's hundred mile wilderness, wilder by far. The trail only crosses one road in the entire section, and passes the roadhead of another toward the end. For the hiker, the wild aspect is increased by the fact that this is the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness; most recreational use of the area is by watercraft, and few hiking trails penetrate the backcountry. The Border Route and Kekekabic (Kek-uh-kab-ic) Trails will be one of the few places on the NCNST where permits are needed for entry. Permit reservations can also be made at (800) 745-3399. There is a $9.00 fee for the reservation. The permits are designed to control use on popular canoe routes, and getting a permit, at no charge, for using these trails is hardly ever a problem. These trails are wild, and while kept open, are not immaculately manicured park trails. They're rough, remote, challenging and some of the wildest and most primitive to be found on the NCNST route. Users should expect to have to use map and compass, search out faint or missing trail, bushwhack, and ford unbridged streams and wet areas.These trails aren't designed for casual day-hikes, and even accessing the trails can be a problem. What with everything, these trails aren't for beginners. Good map and compass and backcountry skills are necessary. Rather than USGS topographic maps, the use of the privately-developed McKenzie Maps, (McKenzie Products, 8479 S. Frye Road, Minong, WI 54859 (800)749-2113) is highly recommended. It could be that the NCNST will use about 75 of the 95 miles of the Border Route. The Border Route was constructed in the late '70s by the Minnesota Rovers Outing Club with the cooperation of the US Forest Service, the Minnesota DNR, and various volunteer and private groups. Towering cliffs, the call of the loon, and views into Canada are common sights and sounds along this trail. From the junction with the SHT, the Border Route winds northwestward for a dozen miles until reaching the roadhead for the Arrowhead Trail, an auto road reaching southward to Hoveland. Once past the Arrowhead, the trail is in the BWCAW, and permits are needed. Permanent trail markers are not permitted in the BWCAW, so trail maintainers get by with blue flagging tape. The trail winds westward through lake-studded wilderness, eventually reaching the Long Portage between Rose and Rove Lakes; if the Arrowhead relo is realized, this likely will be the northernmost point of the NCNST. Many miles to the west, at the Crab Lake trail junction, a private land crossing problem forces a four-mile roadwalk on the Gunflint Trail, a highway that is the only major road to penetrate the Boundary Waters area, although for a buffer zone on either side of the Gunflint it's not officially wilderness area. The trail winds around west of Loon and Gunflint Lakes, eventually coming to a trailhead on Gunflint Trail. An excellent guide to the Border Route is believed to be out of print, but some information about the broder route and general information about the BWCAW is available from Superior National Forest, 8901 Grand Avenue Place, Duluth MN 55080-1102 (218) 626-4300. Two hundred yards south of the Border Route trailhead is the trailhead for the Kekekabic Trail. The Kekekabic Trail Club recommends planning four to six days to hike the 38-mile Kek, so you know it's not an easy trail. It winds through lake country, passing several lakes, goes through several marshy areas, occasionally uses beaver dams to cross streams, and toward the eastern end passes some old mine shafts. Parts of the Kek are hilly and rocky; it passes through patches of old growth white pine. A high point is the gorge of the Agamok River, with several waterfalls. This river is crossed on a KTA-built footbridge. Camping is only permitted at prepared campsites, and the KTA has built several. For more information about the Kekekabic, and information on the club's excellent guide to the trail, contact the Kekekabic Trail Club, 1627 W. County Rd. B, Suite B, Roseville MN 55113 (800-818-HIKE) The Kekekabic Trail comes to an end at Snowbank Lake, 21 miles east of Ely. At the moment, it's a roadwalk to Ely, but NPS officials are examining possibilities for an off-road route through the area. Where trail exists, the route Arrowhead relocation is obvious, but a route from Ely to the Chippewa National Forest is still unresolved. The plan at this point is to develop a 5-mile wide "general corridor" for the trail in this area, similar to the 1982 plan, and identifying existing trail that might be worked into the process. It's anticipated that detailed planning would come later, possibly by the NPS as has recently been completed in northwest Wisconsin. Currently, park service thinking has been aimed at a new route west from Ely through the Superior National Forest and George Washington State forest, running into the Chippewa National Forest north of Grand Rapids, then taking a new route south through the Chippewa to intersect with the existing trail there. East of the Chippewa National Forest there is fair coverage of state forest lands and a couple of interesting state parks, including McCarthy Beach State Park, which was once listed as one of the seventeen best beaches in America. This is a rather superficial early idea, and will be thoroughly investigated; that's something that will have to be done during the planning process. Any route proposed will try to stay on public land where possible, avoiding large areas of wetland, but much of the route is higher and drier than to the south, and extensive public lands exist. For the long-distance hiker planning to get through the area before the new trail construction, possible routes exist on two separate snowmobile/recreation trails, rejected early on by NPS planners because they're open to snowmobiles. The Mesabi Trail, a rail-trail, runs from Ely through the towns of Hibbing and Virginia to Grand Rapids; there's also the Taconite Trail, a separate snowmobile/recreation trail between the same endpoints, but generally laying to the north. The Taconite can not be completely followed in summer due to marshlands, but the Minnesota DNR Taconite-Arrowhead Trail Office (406 Main Street, Box 388, Tower MN 55790, [218] 753-6256) can suggest detours on roads through these areas. The "Arrowhead Route" rejoins the planned route in the Chippewa National Forest. Several wilderness campsites and one developed campsite are located along the trail, which is marked with the NCT marker and blazes. In addition, trailside camping is permitted. Surprisingly, in the Land of Lakes, there is a water access problem at points along this trail, and hikers sometimes must go long distances between good water access. As of now, the trail begins on the obscure Forest Road 2303 at the Aitkin County Line; trail users will need a map from the National Forest Service to find the trailhead. One notable area along the trail is the Shingobee Recreation Area, near the end of the section, with some nice overlooks. For more information, users should contact Chippewa National Forest, Route 3, Box 244, Cass Lake, MN 55663. The North Country Trail Store stocks "The North Country Trail -- Chippewa National Forest", by Rod MacRae. Written by an experienced Chippewa National Forest backpacker, it is intended to accompany the excellent U.S. Forest Service map. "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail" also has a segment on the Chippewa National Forest, available from the North Country Trail Store for $3.50. Through hikers will have to use maps for Hubbard County to get across the next stretch, to Lake Itasca State Park. However, NCTA Headwaters Chapter is presently developing a route across the Paul Bunyan State Forest that would connect the two.No date for opening any section of this trail has been set. Potential hikers, or potential trail workers, should contact the North C