Trail Focus:

The headwaters of the Mississippi make an interesting stop on the NCNST

Bad Medicine Trail and Lake Itasca State Park

Adapted from theApril-May 1998 North Star: The Magazine of the North Country Trail.

The westernmost part of the North Country Trail, in North Dakota and western Minnesota, is largely prairie country, but north of Tamarac National Wildlife Refuge, the transition from prairie to forest is complete; there's no doubt that this is indeed "north country", heavily forested, rolling and sometimes rugged, dotted with lakes. It's in this area that the North Country Trail in Minnesota ceases to be a largely-unrealized plan, and starts to take on reality.

Serious trail construction efforts have been under way pushing west from Lake Itasca, with the recent certification of a 2.9 mile segment there, and with more to come in the future. The trail is complete and certified in Lake Itasca State Park, one of the jewels of the whole trail. Trail construction efforts to connect Lake Itasca with the Chippewa National Forest through the Paul Bunyan State Forest, long in the planning stages, are getting under way.

The Itasca/Bad Medicine area is located well away from major population centers. The nearest towns of any size are Bemidji, about 25 miles north-northwest, or Park Rapids, about 25 miles to the south. US71 connects the two. The western trailhead is located off of SR113, about six miles west of the US71 intersection at the southeast corner of Itasca State Park. Both Park Rapids and Bemidji are moderate-sized towns, with motels, restaurants, grocery stores, and other services. Lodging and other limited services are located in the park, as described below.

The Headwaters Chapter of the NCTA, along with other groups, is working on trail west from Lake Itasca, and the route has reportedly been flagged, but not cleared, to a point about a mile north on CR37, east of Gardner Lake. While partially cleared , this section of the trail is reportedly not complete, but follows the long-abandoned Nichols-Chisholm logging railroad grade westward.

0.0 [0.0] GARDINER LAKE CAMPSIT Gardiner Lake is reached on an unmarked side road off a woods road located approximately 2.0 miles east of the Bad Medicine Lake overlook on SR113; the woods road is about a mile and a half west of Anchor-Mattson Road, another woods road that parallels the west boundary of Itasca State Park. Toward the north end of Gardner Lake an informal campsite has frequently been used by trail builders. The trail continues eastward, winding across several valleys with a somewhat up and down profile; a nice view is reached about a mile past the campsite. About 0.9 miles farther on past the viewpoint, the route rejoins the Nichols-Chisholm railroad grade, following it eastward 0.3 miles to a crossing of Anchor-Mattson Road, where there is a small parking area, and continues east for another 0.6 mile along the grade to the border of Lake Itasca State Park.

LAKE ITASCA STATE PARK is probably Minnesota's most famous state park, due to the headwaters of the Mississippi River flowing out the north side of the lake. But, Minnesota's oldest state park -- established in 1891 -- has other features, too, including towering virgin pines in Preacher's Grove and a large wilderness area. The 32,000 acre park has over 100 lakes of various sizes, and many miles of biking, hiking and snowmobile trails. Only the trails involved with the North Country Trail, and the hike/bike side trail are shown on the accompanying map, but the park abounds with dayhiking and overnight backpacking possibilties; all trails are well marked and signed. There are many campgrounds located in the park, some as small as a single backpacking site, but ranging up to a 218-site RV campground with all the conveniences. The westernmost Adirondack shelters to be found on the North Country Trail are located here. The shelters and the backpacking campgrounds all have to be reserved ahead of time. Douglas Lodge, located at the south end of the east arm of the lake, has an excellent, reasonably priced restaurant and lodging facilities; the 1987 NCTA meeting was held here, along with a segment of the 1994 meeting. Various interpretive activities are available. Very limited hiker supplies are available at the Itasca Nature Store, located in the Douglas Lodge area. Though not on the trail, most hikers will want to take the 5-mile paved hike/bike trail to the Mississippi Headwaters and interpretive center at the north end of the lake. Bike rentals are available, but only at the park headquarters toward the north end of the trail. An AYH hostel is also located in the headquarters area. For more information, contact Itasca State Park Manager, Lake Itasca MN 56460 (218) 255-3654. For information about the hostel, contact Mississippi Headwaters Hostel, HC05, Box 5A, Lake Itasca MN 56460, (219) 266-3415.

2.6 [2.6] ENTER LAKE ITASCA STATE PARK New trail, cut especially for the NCNST in 1993, certified in 1994 and marked with the NCT markers, starts at the park boundary, and proceeds eastward. After about 2 miles, pass an informal campsite used during trail construction; plans are to develop this as a backpack campsite. The trail intersects an abandoned forest road, proceeding southward, and goes around the east side of Kirk Lake, and continues southward, until reaching an old access road leading eastward, about 5.2 miles from the park boundary. About 2.8 miles farther on, reach the designated campsites (reservation required) on the shore of Hernando DeSoto Lake.

9.6 [7.0] JOIN EAGLE SCOUT TRAIL At this point, the trail enters the longer-established park trail system. The trail joins the Eagle Scout Trail heading eastward through some magnificant pine stands with spectacular views of remote lakes. The first shelter (reservation required) is located near the junction with the Desoto Trail, about 0.3 mile east; shortly afterward, pass a junction with the Deer Park Trail. After 2 miles on the Eagle Scout Trail, the NCT reaches the Ozawindib Trail at Iron Corner Lake. A side trail leads south a short distance to the Iron Corners Historical marker, marking the juction of Becker, Clearwater and Hubbard Counties. A single-site backpack campsite (reservation required) is located here.

11.6 [2.0] JOIN OZAWINDIB TRAIL The Ozawindib Trail heads north along the west side of Mary Lake through hilly terrain with fine stands of old growth pines to the South Itasca Center area, where Douglas Lodge is located. After about 0.8 mile, pass junction with the Red Pine Trail; the other shelter is located in this area. The trail continues north about 1.6 miles, passing two other trail intersections, to the South Itasca Center area; the NCNST circles the edge of the east side of the developed area, then joins the bike trail to the headwaters for a short distance before turning east to the park entrance on a separate treadway.

14.4 [2.7] TURN EAST ON MARKED TRAIL The trail follows a winter snowmobile trail eastward paralleling and somewhat north of the park entrance road (SR48) to the park entrance on SR200 near the corner of US71, where certification ends.

The next certified section of the NCNST is located in the Chippewa National Forest, about 40 miles to the east; plans to connect the trail segments are in an advanced stage, and new trail construction is expected soon.

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