Trail Focus:Trail Focus:
Adapted from the Spring 1990 Newsletter of the North Country Trail Association.
Editor's note: This was one of the first really long trail description stories that we ran in the North Country Trail Association Newsletter, which evolved into the North Star. We didn't have a lot of space in those days, so it was cut heavily, and I've always wanted to run the unabridged version somewhere. It's just a little bit dated, but is a wonderful description of a hike through this country; you really feel like you're there. It also gives us a look at how the trail looks from a land manager's point of view.
This article was a landmark in another way -- it introduced us to Bill Menke, who some years later moved over to the National Park Service, and became the Manager for the North Country Trail.
by Bill Menke, (then) Manistee District Ranger
For a long time, I've wanted to hike the entire length of the North Country Trail as it exists on the Manistee Ranger District - a distance of some 45 miles. The Manistee District, is the most northwesterly of the seven Ranger Districts on the Huron-Manistee National Forests, and is located in the northern Lower Peninsula of Michigan.
The northernmost trailhead, on the District, is located on Beers Road about two miles east of the little town of Marilla in Manistee County. North of this point it is only a short distance to the Forest boundary where the Trail will eventually pass through State and private lands on its' way to the Mackinaw Bridge. For now, the Marilla Trailhead is the northern end of the NCT in the Lower Peninsula The southern end of my hike will be the boundary between the Manistee and Baldwin Ranger Districts, about 2 miles south of Freesoil Road, in Lake County.
I have several reasons for wanting to undertake this journey. The first is to check our work progress and determine what we have left to accomplish to meet the agreed upon NCT standards. Secondly, I enjoy backpacking and want to see the scenery along the Trail during the fall color season. My third and most important reason though is to become intimate with the Trail so that I can better relate to the public and their need for information. I finally see enough free time to get away from 'have to' meetings and decide that I'd better do it now or never.
I'm carrying a small tape recorder to help record my thoughts along the way. The following Trip log consists of excerpts from the recordings which I hope might pique your interest in planning a hike an this portion of the NCT. Times are noted to give future hikers a feel for the time needed from point to point but I should point out that I'm walking at a fairly brisk pace to cover distance - probably faster than the average hiker.
1:00 PM: I start south from Marilla Trailhead. The temperature is about 40 degrees and the sky is overcast. My wife Donna and my dog Cruiser, a German Shorthair are accompanying me for the first mile or so and then will return to the truck. Someone had to drop me off so the three of us are enjoying the beautiful Sunday afternoon together. My pack weighs in at 58 pounds - way too heavy. One of the consequences of traveling alone is that there is no one to share the weight of necessary items such as the tent or cook kit.
1:10: We've reached the first overlook. From here there is a spectacular view of Hodenpyle impoundment and the colorful fall foliage. This entire segment of the trail follows along the rim of the first high hills west of the Manistee River valley and offers the opportunity for many views. At this point, there is an old road, on the right, which will be closed by the middle of next summer. All the way to Coates Highway, the trail is within a designated Semi-Primitive Non-Motorized Area (SPNMA). When we implement the SPNMA next summer, the opportunity for solitude will be even greater. Campsites abound throughout this area, as they do for most at the trail, but there is no nearby water for cooking or drinking. One of the tasks ahead of us is to try to locate and mark potential sources of water. These will be untested sources and anyone choosing to use them for drinking will have to boil or otherwise treat before consumption.
1:15: We've reached another vista - a new one created by one of our employees this past summer. John did a nice job and it looks real good.
1:30: The next major landmark along the trail is Marilla Creek. This is a beautiful, clear stream that flows year-round. It's probably OK for a water source but should be boiled or treated as the headwaters is in the farming country, east of Marilla, where vegetable crops are raised and various pesticides probably used.
We've recently constructed a neat little foot bridge that crosses the creek about 5 feet above the water. It's a beautiful spot for a rest break and to take a few pictures. Just shortly before reaching Marilla Creek is one of the major ORV problem areas where they are doing severe damage and causing erosion to a hill. This too will hopefully come under control when we implement the SPNMA.
After taking some pictures, Donna gives me a hug and she and Cruiser head back for the trailhead. For the next three days, I'm on my own.
2:15: I've crossed the place where the 3 roads join (the other major ORV hill climb area) and have run into a man and his three young sons from Big Rapids. They left Marilla Trailhead earlier this morning and have hiked in about 4 miles. They're now on their return trip to their car and have enjoyed the hike and the Trail.
2:35: (MP 4.5) 1 just ran into 4 Mountain Bike riders from Ludington, who have started at Coates Hwy. and come this far. They'll go a little farther and then retrace their route. They report that the trail is in fair condition for mountain bikes. On the Manistee District, we have not built the trail to accommodate the bikes due to the steep, sidehill terrain. While we don't prohibit them, we do inform the riders that the trail isn't designed for bikes.
4:10: I'm now paralleling the Red Bridge Tower Road (FR 5022). This road goes a short distance farther and then terminates at the old firetower site. The road will be gated due to the SPNMA implementation.
At the old tower site, one can see the remnants of the concrete footings that supported the four legs of the 100 foot steel tower. I can imagine that when this tower existed, the towerperson had a commanding view.
A short distance farther along the trail is a short spur with a sign that says "Redhill Tower'. This spur follows along the top of the ridge for about 200 yards and the short walk is well worth the effort as it ends at a beautiful vista. This isn't a bad place to set up a camp although one would have to walk down to the Pole Road to obtain water.
4:30 I've reached the Pole Road (FR 5344) and have left my pack to walk east on the road to see if I can find the spring from where I'll obtain my night's water. I find the creek flowing pretty nicety an the right side of the road about 114 mile from the trail. I think that we could probably develop a concrete spring box a little father upstream that would be a little closer to the trail.
This road will also be gated but a car could be left at the gate, not too far west of the trail, and would provide for a shorter hike than going all the way to Coates highway.
5:00: I'm back at the pack and ready to continue on my way.
5:20: I've been pushing to get to this spot for the first nights camp. It's a nice vista overlooking the rim and the Manistee River valley. Not knowing exactly how long it would take to set up camp this first night, I didn't want to arrive too late.
5:55: The tent is already set up and I've got a little fire going. I hear a flock of geese go over just above me. What could be more beautiful than the haunting calls made by a flock of Canadians?
7:45: Supper is over, dishes washed, and I've sat around the fire drinking a cup of hot chocolate. Several hoot owls call in the distance and the moon is half full so things are pretty bright Since it's a clear night, it may get a little cool. Good thing I've got a warm, down bag. Having pushed hard with the heavy pack, I'm ready to turn in.
7:30 AM:. I'm dressed and crawling out of the tent Any earlier and it's too dark to see. I got fairly cold test night but for the most part, I slept pretty well, considering that it was the first night on the ground. It's just now getting light A little later, there is a beautiful sunrise which I have a commanding view of from the vista I take my instant oatmeal and hot chocolate the few feet to the best view and sit in the morning rays to watch the view unfold and to soak up whet heat I can. There was ice in the canteen this morning (later in the day, a fisherman told me it was 24 degrees).
While getting things organized in my pack, an apple popped out and rolled over the hill. I was right on top of it and tried to go after it but soon tripped and was rolling down the hill, behind the apple, until I grabbed a little tree to stop myself. I figure the apple isn't worth getting hurt and listen as it rolls all the way to the bottom, probably 3-400 feet below me. This gives some indication of the steepness of this country.
8:45: Camp is all cleaned up and I'm starting on the trail.
9:00: Its reached Coates Highway already so I wasn't camped very far north of the highway. Yet, any traffic was barely discernible. I'm looking for Don Stroup (one of our National Forest Volunteers) who is going to hike part of the day with me, Not finding him, I leave the agreed signal so he knows that I've crossed Coates and will follow up behind me. (As it turned out, something must have changed his plans as Don and I never do meet ).
Coates Highway is a blacktop road and provides a good place to spot a car. Elapsed hiking time from Marilla Trailhead has been 4 3/4 hours but I was really pushing yesterday.
9:00: (MP 10.5) Ten wild turkeys just crossed the trail in front of me. As I stop to watch them, they seem in no hurry to get out of sight. I must not have spooked them very much or they'd be long gone. Finally, they go over the hill and as I look away from them and back to the trail, I see a fox squirrel at the base of a tree about 20 feet ahead. Maybe I should just stop for a while and watch wildlife.
This is a beautiful, clear day. The sun is shining, and the fail color is vivid. Like yesterday, this section of the trail passes along the rim and the hills are steep and long.
10:05: I've stopped for a rest break, where the trail is just upslope from the big powerline. The 'resident' flock of geese is again flying around and doing their beautiful 'wild goose' call.
11:45: Reached Dilling Road. During this stretch of trail I've stopped twice to take the pack off and rest my
shoulders. Dilling Road is another blacktop road, leading to the north side of Tippy Dam, and provides access to
the Trail. Elapsed time from Coates Highway has been 3 hours. 
12:10 P.M.: It's time for lunch and although I'm not real hungry, I decide I'll stop to eat, as the more I eat, the less I have to carry. I find a pretty little spot when the trail drops off the flat and goes dawn the hill to Leitch Bayou. Sitting here getting my lunch out, several fishermen pass as this is a popular way to get to the river to fish for Steelhead or to snag Salmon.
1:30: I get back under way and descend the hill to Leitch Bayou pasture. The pasture runs for about a mile along the river and provides a change in scenery. It's under permit to a local farmer who uses it for supplemental summer pasture for his cattle. Many Hawthorn and old apple trees are scattered throughout the grazed area and these provide flowers or fruit, depending on the season. On this particular clay, I picked a couple of juicy apples to supplement those in my pack.
The pasture is a good place to observe Eastern Bluebirds which seem to thrive in the habitat provided by the shorter grass. I've also observed entire flocks of Goldfinches as they flit around picking seeds from thistles and other weedy plants. In the spring, the area is used by geese for grazing the forest greens. One is likely to run into other birds and wildlife, including the Herefords, along this piece of trail. The cattle are friendly and have never been a bother, but watch where you step as sometimes they walk on the NCT, too.
The trail follows close to the river bank and provides some nice river scenes. Within the pasture are 5 footbridges that cross wet areas or in 3 cases, nice spring creeks that have watercress in them.
1:30: I stop for a little rest on the last bridge, in the pasture, before starting the climb back to the rim. It took a little more than normal time to come through Leitch Bayou due to all the fishermen that I stopped to talk to.
2:25: A short distance back, I passed MP 18. A few drops of rain have fallen but no problems yet. About an hour ago, there was a dramatic weather change. It's now cloudy, cool, and windy and looks like it could rain.
3:15: I've passed the site of Old Highbridge - the place where the logging railroad crossed the Manistee River. In total, this bridge was over 1/4 mile in length and I think 140 feet high. Perhaps some day we can place an interpretive sign that explains the history and depicts the old bridge.
I just looked up to see a shiny black squirrel. In this part of Michigan, the black variety of grey squirrel seems to be as plentiful as the regular grey or fox squirrels.
3:00: MP 20. Just at the north end of the fill for the blacktop that crosses the Manistee River at what is known today as Highbridge
3:40: Crossing Highbridge. Roughly, this is 3 hours since I started down the hill into Leitch Bayou after having lunch. Them's a large parking lot on the west side of the road (Highbridge Boat Access) so this is another good place to spot a car and begin or end a hike. Elapsed hiking time from Dilling Road is 4 hours, including lunch.
4:45 I've stopped to camp on a nice little point that overlooks Blacksmith Bayou. It's a little early to stop but I don't feel like going on to the long, boring stretch of trail that follows the power line when I'm tired. I've traveled somewhat over 12 miles today.
Last fall I spent a couple of hours hunting squirrels near here and remember spotting some seepy areas, below the hill, that may be fed by a spring. My pack is back on the trail and I'm scouting around for a water source. My memory served me well and I've found two different springs that are flowing at a good rate.
Alter filling the canteen, I set up camp and we some of the water from the spring to cook my supper. Tonight the menu is sour cream and chives flavored noodles Rice-a-Roni, hot instant cider and 2 cookies.
As I'm washing the few dishes, a man comes along the trail from the south. He lives near here and tells me that he walks this stretch almost every day to exercise his dog. Perhaps he'd make a good Adopt-a-Trail candidate. I've got his name and will follow up later.
It's now wall after dark (about 8:00) and then is a lone goose honking loudly as it looks for a place to land. It's coming my way and lands on the Bayou below camp with a loud splash.
8:05: During the night it rained hard, from about 1:00 - 5:00, but everything stayed dry. The man with the dog had warned me that rain was in the forecast so I prepared for it and I'm glad I did It's always fun to be in a tent to hear the pitter-patter of rain on the roof and reminds me of being raised in the old farmhouse where my attic bedroom had a tin roof. But, it's also good to have the rain stop so you can break camp without getting everything wet. I'm now heating water far breakfast and beginning to pack things up.
8:55: It's time to again shoulder the pack and get underway. I'm a little slow this morning primarily because the lens fell out of my glasses and I had to get them fixed with my trusty pocket knife.
9:20: After leaving the campsite, the trail is still following the rim of the first hill south of the river. I've crossed the sand road leading to the Blacksmith Bayou River Access and am now crossing Chicago Ave. and starting down the worst section of trail. This is where, for the next 1 1/2 - 2 miles, the trail follows the powerline and a sand, two track road under the powerline. ORV's and 4x4's utilize this stretch of the 'trail' so it's not very aesthetic,
9:35: I'm walking down the powerline and it is indeed a monotonous stretch that we need to get resolved by obtaining right-of-way so that we can get the Trail on a permanent location. But even the bad has its good as I just saw 4 deer in the Right of Way in front of me.
9:55: After traversing the power line, the trail follows Huff Road. While following the road, it crosses Pine Creek - a nice stream where a young couple was trying to dip out a salmon on its way upstream. I'm again entering the woods, south of Pine Creek, so I've passed through the bad stretch in about 35 minutes.
10:15: I've reached Udell Trailhead (located on Highway 55) and am hiding the pack tot the short walk to the Udell Store to get a bottle of pop and to call my wife. She was a little worried about me being on the trail by myself. This is the second major trailhead we have on the Ranger District and is roughly at the Trail midpoint. There is a picnic table, grill, and toilet here and the site is used as a rest area by highway travelers. There is also a short Nature Trail that leads from the area
10:35: I'm already back from the store and ready to shoulder the pack and continue south. The Wild Cherry Pepsi
tasted good, even this early in the day. 
11:15: After leaving Udell Trailhead, the trail passes through flat terrain for about 3/4 mile and then begins the climb up into the Udell Hills. I'm now on top of the 'Hills'. This is a beautiful area of moderately steep hills that are covered with good quality hardwoods. The colorful fall foliage makes this a perfect time to be on the trail.
12:40: I've stopped for lunch at the high hump that has a nice long distance view to the north or northwest. I'm a little unsure of the direction as it's a cloudy day. To get to this vista, one has to walk a short distance off the trail and climb the hump. It's fairly obvious. I suspect that I can see almost to Hwy 31, somewhere north of Manistee. This is a nice temporary vista, created by a clear-cut timber harvest a few years ago. As the clear-cut grows up, the vista will be eliminated. The weather is very cool and breezy and it looks like it could rain at any time.
1:10: I'm starting back on the trail. Lunch consisted of peanut butter and jelly on crackers (carried in an old Pringles can), dried cherries, Pringles, a candy bar, an apple, and a little Wilers grape drink.
1:35 Another beautiful vista opens up on the right. From here 1 can see all the way to Filer City where the smokestacks from PCA are easily visible, even on this cloudy day. This too is a temporary vista created by a clear-cut. Due to lack of topography, neither of these 'clear-cut' vistas will be maintainable.
1:45: The long white flag of a deer bouncing through the trees just caught my attention and provided a thrill.
1:55: I've reached the junction of Madison and South Skochelas Rds. Elapsed time from Udell Trailhead is 3 1/2 hours. From here, the trail follows the blacktop road for about 1/2 mile and crosses the river. This is another section where we need to obtain right-of-way to get off the road.
2:20: The Little Manistee River crossing is a nice place to stop for a rest. This is a beautiful little river and is one of the premiere steelhead streams in the entire U.S. I'm reluctant to use it as a source of water due to all the upstream development Yet, it's time to obtain water far tonight's camp so I plan to see if I can get it from one of the nearby cabins. South of Ninemile Bridge, there are no known water sources. We'll have to work on that.
3:10: I'm just now leaving the junction of S. Skecolas and Ninemile Rds. I've been looking for water and had to go to nine houses before finding any. These are all seasonal cabins and the water was already drained for the season.
3:15: After crossing the river, the route turns left on Ninemile Rd. (FR 5202) for 1/4 mile. The trail goes south from the right side of the road. I'm now back on the trail. It's well marked here and is incised to the agreed standards.
3:50: I'm ready to stop for a rest break as my shoulders are really weary. The extra 8 pounds of water that I got back at Ninemile really add to the load. Just prior to stopping I saw 3-4 deer scatter out through the forest This is more or less a flat section of trail but it winds nicely through the oak forest and the Camp Sauble crew is doing a nice job of construction on this segment which we're moving to a more scenic route. We'll have this relocation completed in a few weeks. This has been a grey day that looked like rain at any moment. So far, I thank my blessings and hope it'll hold out for another mile or so until I get camp set up. Then it can rain if it wants to. The autumn color is not advanced as far in the Udell Hills or on this part of trail as it was near Marilla.
4:20: I've reached the spot where I want to camp for the night. It's on a little ridge overlooking a wetland. Nice hardwoods are present. My shoulders are about to get to me. This extra 8 pounds of water is the 'straw that breaks the camels back'. Not only are my shoulders tired but I still hear thunder in the distance and want to get camp set up before it might rain, As with all the other campsites, this one has an abundance of firewood within 50 feet of camp.
7:45: I've already watched the fire for quite some time, thinking about all the good thoughts one thinks of while watching a campfire. It's getting quite dark and I'll probably turn in pretty soon. This campsite has been perhaps the most remote of any as Its heard less outside traffic, or other noise, than at the others.
8:10: I'm about ready to go into the tent and read for a little while using my candle lantern. Four owls are calling to each other. One is fairly close, perhaps 3-400 yards away. What a nice sound!
October 11, 1989 (Wednesday)
8:00: I'm just now ready to crawl out of the tent I overslept a little this morning but it sure feels good. My knees and feet still feel a little tired. During the night I heard the owls on several occasions and at one time, was awakened to a tremendous vibration of the ground. It turned out to be what I think was a 'heavy duty' buck as when it got some distance away, it stopped to snort and blow at the scent of the tent.
8:35: The tent is down and almost everything is packed. All that's left to do is to have some breakfast and then be under way. Today is going to be a welcome change from yesterday. The sun is already coming up brightly through the trees and the sky is perfectly clear.
9:05: Everything is packed and I'm ready to start on the trail. The camp has been left in a 'no trace' condition except for the spot where the tent stood. Here, you can see the leaves temporarily crushed but they'll soon recover. The fire ashes have been scattered, after insuring that they were dead out, and the spot has been covered with leaves and litter. There's only about 7 miles to hike today and it sure looks like a nice fall day ahead. After a final look at the campsite I'm on the trail. My pack actually feels light this morning. The majority of the food is gone and I'm carrying only the basic camping supplies.
9:35: I've stopped to write a Warning Ticket to someone who has constructed an illegal, permanent, in ground rifle bunker for deer hunting. it's quite elaborate with carpeting, swivel captains seat, etc. We'll have our Camp Sauble crew remove it.
10:00: The day is warming up nicely and I'm stopping to take off my coat. I'm just east of the swamp where the trail is basically obliterated by marsh grass and fallen, dead Jack Pine. We will be working on this section and getting it to standard shortly.
10:25: I've now crossed Tyndal Rd. (FR 5203), having crossed Dead Horse Marsh Rd. (FR 5331) perhaps 10 minutes ago. This section of the trail passes through low, rolling hills of mixed oak end some pine. It's pretty in its' own way but certainly not as spectacular as the north part of the trail.
11:30: Bear Swamp now lies on either side of me as the trail follows an old grade through the swamp. Bear Swamp is a lowland hardwood stand that is seasonally flooded. This is a little different experience than the rest of the trail.
11:40: I'm now at the Freesoil Road Trailhead. For now, this provides the logical 'end of the trail' as it's
the last major road before the District boundary. Elapsed hiking time from Ninemile Bridge is 4 hours. 
11:55: My shoulders are getting a little tired so I've stopped for lunch. Most of this section of the trail is quite flat.
12:15: I'm ready to put the pack on again and start down the trail. The weather today is crystal clear with a nice blue sky. Winds are moderate. The leaves are filtering down to the ground and all in all, it's just a beautiful fall day. It should be only a mile or so to where the car will be waiting. It'll feel good to get the pack off as I can feel that my joints are getting sad of sore and a general weariness has set in. I haven't done a lot of long distance backpacking but of course have done a lot of walking. Although I'm active and in good physical condition I can feel the rigors of the trail. I suspect that perhaps it might be a good idea after about 3 days of packing to just layover in camp for a day to recuperate.
There are several really unique deer blinds along this stretch of the trail. They're made from the outer shell of the stump of the large pine that were logged around the turn of the century. These are split into sections and then stood upright to form a hollow, artificial stump that a hunter can sit inside. They're really natural in appearance,
12:35: I'm now passing through a Redpine plantation that we planted perhaps 30-35 years ago (about 1955-1960). It's interesting to note the profusion of old White Pine stumps that still exist here. More evidence that before the great logging era much of this part of Michigan was stocked with predominantly large White Pine - the famous Michigan pineries.
1:00: I've reached the last 'two-track' before the District boundary. The car should be in the permanent opening just up the road. I'm off-loading the pack to go look for it. Ah-Ha - they've done a perfect job as the car is right where it's supposed to be. I'll load the pack in the car and then continue on the trail to the district boundary.
1:10: I'm back on the trail. It's sure easier to walk with just a camera bag and a few maps. Whoops - there goes a grouse. A burst of feathers and energy!
1:15: Hey, there goes another grouse. I need my dog and a shotgun!
1:25: I've reached the last bridge built by National Forest Volunteer, John Bowling. This is a masterpiece, elevated about 18 inches above the floor of a seasonally wet hardwood swamp. This will allow a dry foot passage during the spring when the area is flooded. The bridge is over 125 feet long and curves through the trees very beautifully.
1:40: Shortly before reaching the District boundary, the trail passes through a small grove of large White Pine. This is a pretty spot for a few photos.
1:41 Actually, the grove is such a short a distance before the boundary that I'm already there. I've just kicked up a covey of 5 grouse. What a way to cap off the hike! This is the southern boundary of the District, where we border the Baldwin Ranger District. At this time, they have not been able to connect their portion of the trail to this point. (Editor's note: long since done.)Now all that's left is to retrace my steps to the car, and then to head for home and a nice hot shower.