North Dakota
The following text is updated from the book Following the North Country Trail written by the North Country Trail Association's former magazine editor Wes Boyd. The book is now out of print.
To the eastern eye, used to hills and forests and people, North Dakota seems barren. But, look again, with a wider eye, to the distant horizion, the clear dome of blue sky, the prairie rolling away like a grassy ocean. Hidden in the folds of the land is one of the great waterfowl nesting areas of North America. Those rolling grasslands once supported buffalo by the millions, and you can see them in your mind's eye if you look hard enough. Montana calls itself "the big sky country"; the sky is no smaller in North Dakota. At night, it's filled with stars, and sometimes on the coldest nights you can almost hear the Northern Lights crackle as they dance in the sky. The state has a special beauty all its own.
The scattering of people across the rural parts of the state are a tough and hearty breed, few enough that the state is one of the last reserves of elbow room in an increasingly crowded country. The state's literacy rate is the highest in the country, and the crime rate the lowest. It's a place where there's still room for the spirit to expand.
Much of the NCNST in North Dakota is located on open, rolling prairie, much of it cropped or grazed. There are few trees; except in the river valleys, most of the trees along the trail route were planted by hand, to provide shelter from the bitter winter winds, firewood to drive away the cold, and shade to protect from the hot summer sun. Wherever you see a grove of trees along the NCNST in these areas, a farmhouse usually stands -- or once stood, for rural North Dakota has been steadily losing population through the second half of the century, as farms and ranches have become bigger and less labor-intensive. Even the rural towns along the route are generally small and shrinking, though some have had better luck than others.
"Completing the North Country Trail in North Dakota will be a challenge," the National Park Service's slide show on the trail says. True, indeed; although vast strides have been made in the last few years, and the percentage of completed trail in the state threatens to overtake more populated and trail wise states, much remains to be done, and here, as elsewhere on the trail, the supply of public lands for trail development is running low. Quiet back roads will probably be an NCNST feature here for some years to come
There is no planned route west from Minnesota's Maplewood State Park across the Red River Valley, but the most direct route crosses the state line at Ft. Abercrombie State Historic Site. The fort was established in 1858 to protect the northwestern frontier, and was one of a chain of forts along the route from St. Paul to the Montana gold fields. It's a roadwalk west across flat farmland to the Sheyenne National Grasslands.
The North Country Trail first gets off road in North Dakota in the Sheyenne National Grassland, which contains 70,180 acres of federal land and 64,769 acres of private land, located in Ransom and Richland Counties. The area is administered by the Dakota Prairie National Grasslands of the U.S. Forest Service.
The grasslands contain sandy soil deposited as the delta of an ancient river and are often referred to as the "Dakota Sandhills." During the drought of the mid-1930s, many farms in the area were abandoned and the federal government began buying up the land. The Soil Conservation Service was assigned the role of rehabilitating the wind-blown dunes into productive grassland suitable for cattle-grazing. When this was accomplished, the land was turned over to the Forest Service in 1954.
Originally the grasslands supported big bluestem and little bluestem, both tall prairie grasses. Much of this native grass was destroyed by the drought but has been re-vegetated and is increasing. Plantings of cottonwood and quaking aspen have been established in scattered areas of the grasslands and burr oak groves can be found among ravines. These stands break up the barren appearance of the prairie and add interest for hikers.
Twenty-seven miles of trail are certified in the Sheyenne National Grassland. The eastern trailhead is about 7 miles southwest of Kindred. For more information contact District Ranger, Sheyenne National Grassland, PO Box 946, Lisbon ND 58054, (701) 683-4342, or visit their website http://www.fs.fed.us/r1/dakotaprairie/sheyenne.htm for information. A Forest Service map for the grasslands has been published, and has considerable information about the route. Also, the route is covered in "Certified Sections of the North Country Trail -- North Dakota," which includes a trail log and sketch maps of the route, along with other information. This publication is available from the North Country Trail Store for $5.50.
There is a graveled path across the grasslands with wooden posts from 200 to 500 feet apart. Camping is not allowed at the trailheads, but you can camp anywhere else in the grasslands, even though there are currently no designated campsites. Future plans call for the establishment of several backcountry campsites and a campground near the trail. The only place along the trail where a shady campsite near water is available is along Iron Spring Creek.
Since as many as 11,000 head of cattle and their calves roam the grasslands, there are 24 gates over the trail. These gates have vertical pivot lifts so they can be opened while on horseback, but some have pins that must be pulled out before opening. The cattle tend to congregate around the windmills where there is water. Water for hikers can also be obtained from these wells but it should be treated.
From the Sheyenne National Grasslands, it is hoped the trail can follow the Sheyenne River Valley, but for now users will have to consult a map of Ransom County to get across to the Sheyenne State Forest. Here, over two miles have recently been constructed by the Sheyenne River Valley Chapter that attaches to the original 1.5 mile loop. The trail offers outstanding scenic views overlooking the Sheyenne River Valley as it winds back and forth out of the forest and into the prairie. Along the way, a side trail leads to the State's only registered waterfall. The trail is open to hiking, horseback riding, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing. Primitive camping is available at several sites within the Forest. These sites have a nearby water source, a picnic table, and fire ring. For more information, contact District Forester, North Dakota Forest Service, PO Box 604, Lisbon ND 58054, (701) 683-4323, or visit their website http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/forestservice/stateforest/sheyenne_river.htm
The hiker can continue on Ransom County roads to Fort Ransom State Park. Here, a 1.9 mile trail segment is certified and follows the Sheyenne River. Fort Ransom State Historic Site is an unreconstructed military post dating back to the 1870s. For information, contact Manager, Ft. Ransom State Park, 5981 Walt Hjelle Parkway, Ft. Ransom ND 58033, (701) 973-4331, or visit their website http://www.ndparks.com/Parks/FRSP.htm.
For many miles northwest of Ft. Ransom the NCT is an unrealized possibility, and hikers will have to generally follow county roads. It is an interesting walk along the Sheyenne River Valley National Scenic Byway, which features interesting historical sites and also more trees and shade than elsewhere in North Dakota. The hiker can get back on certified trail for 4.6 miles within the city of Valley City where the trail passes through the campus of Valley City State University and downtown areas. The trail also crosses the Sheyenne River on 3 historic bridges. There are great views overlooking the City, the valley, and the Highline railroad bridge from the Medicine Wheel Park overlook.
North of Valley City, the general route of the trail continues along the Sheyenne River to Lake Ashtabula, a multi-purpose reservoir built and managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. Here, the trail follows close to the west lakeshore in places, winds around tributary streams, and climbs up to the top of the valley rim. Over 36 miles of certified trail has been established there including two backcountry campsites. In addition, numerous public recreation sites, many with developed campgrounds, are located along either side of the reservoir and are accessible from the trail. For more information, contact Lake Ashtabula Project Office, 2630 114th Ave. SE, Valley City ND 58072-9795, (701) 845-2970, or visit their website http://www.mvp.usace.army.mil/recreation/default.asp?pageid=151.
As the river makes its westward turn, the general route of the trail departs from the Sheyenne River and heads west through Griggs and Eddy Counties to the east end of the Garrison Diversion Project, north of the town of New Rockford.
The Garrison Diversion Project offers the North Country Trail a home for about 40% of the route across North Dakota. Trail is found either on lands operated by the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation (BOR) or on BOR lands operated by the North Dakota Game and Fish Department. Were it not for the Garrison Diversion route, a completed trail in central North Dakota would be difficult, indeed; as it is, it offers a certified route of 147 miles that is an easy, though sometimes dry, walk across public lands.
The canal route comes in three segments. The first is 41.5 miles along the as-yet incomplete New Rockford Canal west from New Rockford. The second is an off-road hiking route for 32 miles across prairie in Lonetree Wildlife Management Area (WMA). This scenic area was once proposed as a reservoir site, but now is managed to provide a diversity of natural habitats and is a wildlife watchers dream. West of Lonetree, the trail follows the McClusky Canal, the westernmost segment, which runs 73.6 miles to Lake Audubon.
The Garrison Diversion has a long and complicated history. Only about half of the project has been completed, in spite of a huge investment, mostly in the '60s and '70s, but major development work has been halted since the early '80s. The result is a political hot potato for much of North Dakota; the hiker stopping in one of the several little towns along the route and admitting that they're hiking the canal route can expect to get an earful about it.
The NCNST follows a route along the public lands to either side of the canal. In places, the BOR has marked a route that's off of the canal access roads. Where the McClusky Canal goes through deep cuts, the view from the top of the cuts and the relief from their reflected heat is welcome. Prepared facilities are limited to a couple of public campgrounds in Lonetree WMA and Brekken Lake, and a private campground at McClusky. However, there are plenty of places to bivouac. Water availability is spotty on the eastern half of the Garrison, and there are long dry stretches.
A few road walk miles west from the end of the Garrison Diversion, the hiker can follow game retrieval trails and the Auto Tour Route through the Audubon National Wildlife Refuge, with a nice view across Lake Audubon and abundant wildlife viewing opportunities. More off-road trail is planned on public lands between the Refuge and the western terminus, but for now the only completed trail is in Lake Sakakawea State Park. Currently, a few road miles through the City of Riverdale take the hiker to the edge of bluffs overlooking the great Missouri River. The area around Lake Sakakawea is a very popular recreation area. The state park is reached after a three-mile walk across the Garrison Dam. The trail runs from the west end of the dam to the NCT's western terminus near the State Park Visitors Center. For further information, contact Lake Sakakawea State Park, PO Box 732, Riverdale ND 58565, (701) 487-3315, or visit their website http://www.ndparks.com/Parks/LSSP.htm.
On a small peninsula at the state park the North Country Trail comes to an end. From there on a nice day, a huge dome of blue sky arches overhead, and water sparkles on three sides. Crown Point is far away, and not only in miles -- there are 4500 of those. In that distance, many hills and forests and lakes and streams and fields and farms, and a few cities, too have been passed. The blazes and trail signs reach far to the east, sometimes spotty and missing, but in more profusion than only a few years ago, and in ever-growing number. It'll be a long time before the NCNST is complete, but it's growing and changing all the time, becoming more complete with each passing year. Yes, it'll be some trail when it's done -- but it's some trail today, too.
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